Toyota oil drain plug torque specs
JK 3.6 Pentastar with persistent oil filter housing leak.
2023.06.04 14:27 RobertThePersian JK 3.6 Pentastar with persistent oil filter housing leak.
Long story short: about to be installing my fifth oil filter housing assembly in eight months.
The Jeep: 2016 RHD JK with 100k+ miles, used for mail delivery that I've owned for four years. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage Synthetic before the new engine which has had whatever Mopar oil the dealership put in. Also, I do use a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 18 ft. lbs. at every oil change, which I've been doing around every 3,000 miles because of the intense use.
I came home one day in October 2022 and noticed something that caught my eye on the garage floor underneath my Jeep. I looked and there was oil running underneath my Jeep on the backside of the oil pan and along where the inspection plugs are at on the bell housing, and had the transmission pan covered. I looked in the engine bay and I could tell the valve cover gaskets were wet (this will become somewhat relevant later). I checked the dipstick and noticed I was down a half-quart of oil. I got in touch with a local shop that has a good rep within my small community and the mechanic said it wasn't my valve covers, that I had an oil filter housing leak that was just running along the valve cover. I wanted him to do the work because I wasn't super-eager about reassembling the intake and I needed new spark plugs anyways (this will also come back later), so that overlaps well enough. It took him a month to get around to it, I drove my backup a lot in the meantime, and the bill for spark plugs and the oil filter ended up being $660. That's how I got Oil Filter Housing #2.
But the Jeep kept leaking oil.
I took it back to the local mechanic the next chance I got, a couple of weeks later. He said he'd look at it that day, I guess he did, and assured me it was probably old oil that was still stuck along the way. I was skeptical; after probably fifty hours of use, any old oil should have run off or burned off a bit ago. The Jeep keeps on leaking oil, even after I do an oil change. I take it back and the local mechanic pours some dye in and tells me to come back in a day and he will look and see if it's still leaking fresh oil. Local mechanic finds that it is and he reinstalls the oil filter housing, free of charge to me.
We had a wet and icy winter in the central US that kept the garage floor and the bell housing and the transmission pan cleaned off so I didn't notice a lot of oil getting on the floor but I did have to keep the Jeep topped off, losing a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm figuring that's not super unusual for a Pentastar with 100k+ on the clock and I'm busy and don't have time to have the Jeep laid up in the weather that I bought it for. When spring comes around I start to notice the leak again. At this point I'm starting to suspect a rear main seal more than oil filter housing but the inspection holes are still dry.
One weekend in March, I did an oil change on a Sunday afternoon. The next day (Monday, the perfect day of the week for this to happen), I'm heading out to load my Jeep and I notice a gigantic puddle of something underneath my Jeep. It looks to me like the front crankshaft seal just pissed itself. I feel the puddle and the liquid is slick, like oil. It's also barely above 32F outside, and all the liquid I can see is running underneath the crankshaft pulley. Oil stick still looks OK though. I panic drive the Jeep back home and get it in the garage, put a mat under it, get my backup and do my route. I try to get a local shop (the one I went to before or any others within ten miles, which is about as far as I estimate it can go) to see if they can get my Jeep in but they refuse to take it because they are too busy. I call a Jeep dealership a couple of towns over that has a good reputation (as opposed to the one a town over, but owned by the same company, that doesn't) and have it towed there. I tell them about the immediate problem and the oil leak I've been having. The service advisor, who I have to say is one of the better ones I've ever worked with on anything, calls me back and tell me that it wasn't the crank seal, it was the water pump. They also noticed I had some rocker arms going bad. I tell them that I had noticed that too (I had always heard that Jeep dealerships wouldn't look at rockers until a check engine light came on otherwise I'd have taken care of this a year or two ago) and that they would replace those. The oil leak looked to be coming out of the oil filter housing and the valve covers (the same thing I thought six months ago). To skip ahead through a couple of phone calls, the rockers on the left bank of the Pentastar were also bad and a cam over there was damaged. I could have all of that repaired for $5300 or just install a reman engine + the oil filter housing for around $8k, which would include a three year, 100k mile parts & labor warranty. After thinking about what else could continue going wrong, I ended up telling them to put a reman in. I get over to the dealership to pick up my Jeep after it's all said and done and the SA says "Oh, we had to put new spark plugs in, the old ones were junk and weren't really for that vehicle." My opinion of the trusted local mechanic really has gone downhill but I'm thrilled to have all of their bullshit behind me. That's the story of how I got Oil Filter Housing #3.
Things are going fine with the Jeep, not hearing any crazy noises, but it does occur to me to check the oil after about 1,000 miles. I check and it's about a half-quart low. My eyebrows are raised but I think, "well maybe the dealership only put 5.5 quarts in." I top it off with some Mobil 1 I had around, and continue on as normal. After about 2600 miles on the new motor, I decide to check it again and the oil level is barely registering on the dipstick. I look underneath the Jeep and the back of the pan and the bell housing are all covered with oil again (nothing's on the transmission pan, curiously enough). I look up top and I can see oil coming out below where the filter is (which I haven't even touched on this engine). I top off the Jeep (with Mobil 1 again, which I thought about but that didn't make the Jeep oil level low to start with), call the dealership, and they conclude that it is oil filter housing and they replace the oil filter housing and change the oil, all under warranty and it didn't cost me a dime. That's Oil Filter Housing #4.
I got my Jeep back Wednesday of last week. Besides driving it home, I drove my backup vehicle on Thursday and drove the Jeep on the route on Friday & Saturday (yesterday). There's an empty church parking lot I usually stop at and re-sort and reorganize my parcels in. I decided to have a peek underneath just to check things out and sure enough, right on the bottom side of the bell housing once again. I'm going to be calling the dealership back first chance I get this week, so I guess this will be Oil Filter Housing #5.
So that's the full background.
My question is, are there any other causes for this besides just coincidentally bad workmanship spread across multiple mechanics and companies, or have Mopar parts quality just gotten this bad? Is there anything I can bring up to the Jeep SA that might be making these oil filter housing assemblies fail? I'm completely out of ideas here.
submitted by RobertThePersian to Wrangler [link] [comments]
The Jeep: 2016 RHD JK with 100k+ miles, used for mail delivery that I've owned for four years. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage Synthetic before the new engine which has had whatever Mopar oil the dealership put in. Also, I do use a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 18 ft. lbs. at every oil change, which I've been doing around every 3,000 miles because of the intense use.
I came home one day in October 2022 and noticed something that caught my eye on the garage floor underneath my Jeep. I looked and there was oil running underneath my Jeep on the backside of the oil pan and along where the inspection plugs are at on the bell housing, and had the transmission pan covered. I looked in the engine bay and I could tell the valve cover gaskets were wet (this will become somewhat relevant later). I checked the dipstick and noticed I was down a half-quart of oil. I got in touch with a local shop that has a good rep within my small community and the mechanic said it wasn't my valve covers, that I had an oil filter housing leak that was just running along the valve cover. I wanted him to do the work because I wasn't super-eager about reassembling the intake and I needed new spark plugs anyways (this will also come back later), so that overlaps well enough. It took him a month to get around to it, I drove my backup a lot in the meantime, and the bill for spark plugs and the oil filter ended up being $660. That's how I got Oil Filter Housing #2.
But the Jeep kept leaking oil.
I took it back to the local mechanic the next chance I got, a couple of weeks later. He said he'd look at it that day, I guess he did, and assured me it was probably old oil that was still stuck along the way. I was skeptical; after probably fifty hours of use, any old oil should have run off or burned off a bit ago. The Jeep keeps on leaking oil, even after I do an oil change. I take it back and the local mechanic pours some dye in and tells me to come back in a day and he will look and see if it's still leaking fresh oil. Local mechanic finds that it is and he reinstalls the oil filter housing, free of charge to me.
We had a wet and icy winter in the central US that kept the garage floor and the bell housing and the transmission pan cleaned off so I didn't notice a lot of oil getting on the floor but I did have to keep the Jeep topped off, losing a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm figuring that's not super unusual for a Pentastar with 100k+ on the clock and I'm busy and don't have time to have the Jeep laid up in the weather that I bought it for. When spring comes around I start to notice the leak again. At this point I'm starting to suspect a rear main seal more than oil filter housing but the inspection holes are still dry.
One weekend in March, I did an oil change on a Sunday afternoon. The next day (Monday, the perfect day of the week for this to happen), I'm heading out to load my Jeep and I notice a gigantic puddle of something underneath my Jeep. It looks to me like the front crankshaft seal just pissed itself. I feel the puddle and the liquid is slick, like oil. It's also barely above 32F outside, and all the liquid I can see is running underneath the crankshaft pulley. Oil stick still looks OK though. I panic drive the Jeep back home and get it in the garage, put a mat under it, get my backup and do my route. I try to get a local shop (the one I went to before or any others within ten miles, which is about as far as I estimate it can go) to see if they can get my Jeep in but they refuse to take it because they are too busy. I call a Jeep dealership a couple of towns over that has a good reputation (as opposed to the one a town over, but owned by the same company, that doesn't) and have it towed there. I tell them about the immediate problem and the oil leak I've been having. The service advisor, who I have to say is one of the better ones I've ever worked with on anything, calls me back and tell me that it wasn't the crank seal, it was the water pump. They also noticed I had some rocker arms going bad. I tell them that I had noticed that too (I had always heard that Jeep dealerships wouldn't look at rockers until a check engine light came on otherwise I'd have taken care of this a year or two ago) and that they would replace those. The oil leak looked to be coming out of the oil filter housing and the valve covers (the same thing I thought six months ago). To skip ahead through a couple of phone calls, the rockers on the left bank of the Pentastar were also bad and a cam over there was damaged. I could have all of that repaired for $5300 or just install a reman engine + the oil filter housing for around $8k, which would include a three year, 100k mile parts & labor warranty. After thinking about what else could continue going wrong, I ended up telling them to put a reman in. I get over to the dealership to pick up my Jeep after it's all said and done and the SA says "Oh, we had to put new spark plugs in, the old ones were junk and weren't really for that vehicle." My opinion of the trusted local mechanic really has gone downhill but I'm thrilled to have all of their bullshit behind me. That's the story of how I got Oil Filter Housing #3.
Things are going fine with the Jeep, not hearing any crazy noises, but it does occur to me to check the oil after about 1,000 miles. I check and it's about a half-quart low. My eyebrows are raised but I think, "well maybe the dealership only put 5.5 quarts in." I top it off with some Mobil 1 I had around, and continue on as normal. After about 2600 miles on the new motor, I decide to check it again and the oil level is barely registering on the dipstick. I look underneath the Jeep and the back of the pan and the bell housing are all covered with oil again (nothing's on the transmission pan, curiously enough). I look up top and I can see oil coming out below where the filter is (which I haven't even touched on this engine). I top off the Jeep (with Mobil 1 again, which I thought about but that didn't make the Jeep oil level low to start with), call the dealership, and they conclude that it is oil filter housing and they replace the oil filter housing and change the oil, all under warranty and it didn't cost me a dime. That's Oil Filter Housing #4.
I got my Jeep back Wednesday of last week. Besides driving it home, I drove my backup vehicle on Thursday and drove the Jeep on the route on Friday & Saturday (yesterday). There's an empty church parking lot I usually stop at and re-sort and reorganize my parcels in. I decided to have a peek underneath just to check things out and sure enough, right on the bottom side of the bell housing once again. I'm going to be calling the dealership back first chance I get this week, so I guess this will be Oil Filter Housing #5.
So that's the full background.
My question is, are there any other causes for this besides just coincidentally bad workmanship spread across multiple mechanics and companies, or have Mopar parts quality just gotten this bad? Is there anything I can bring up to the Jeep SA that might be making these oil filter housing assemblies fail? I'm completely out of ideas here.
2023.06.04 13:13 TabulaRasa5678 It's a stupid question, but I won't know if I don't ask... oil change?
I haven't changed my own oil in over two decades. After a couple of mishaps, I'm beginning to not trust some techs to drive (or try to drive) my beautiful car that has a MT. I would assume that changing the oil has not changed in 20 years, but there may be some new tips/tricks. My car is a 2015 Honda Accord EX-L V6, six-speed MT.
Off-topic: I don't trust jack stands, so I'm going to invest in some car ramps. I can't believe that they sell them in plastic. You would think if you're going to put 1 3/4 tons above you, you'd pony up the extra $20 - $30 for the steel ones.
Thank you to everyone that answers. Most of you have been great in giving help and/or your opinion on my subjects that I've asked about.
submitted by TabulaRasa5678 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
- Start car to normal operating temperature, turn off car
- Put pan under crankcase, use 17 mm wrench to loosen plug
- Drain oil completely, replace pressure washer with a new one, replace plug, tighten slightly
- Using oil wrench, remove oil filter, check to make sure gasket didn't stick to the case
- Drain oil from filter, replace filter after lubing the seal/gasket, tighten slightly
- Add 4.5 quarts 0W-20 synthetic detergent oil (API seal)
- Check the dipstick, run engine for 3 minutes, turn off and recheck dipstick
- Cycle through function button on dash to oil level, hold button until display flashes, let go, hold button again and number should go back to 100%
- Done.
Off-topic: I don't trust jack stands, so I'm going to invest in some car ramps. I can't believe that they sell them in plastic. You would think if you're going to put 1 3/4 tons above you, you'd pony up the extra $20 - $30 for the steel ones.
Thank you to everyone that answers. Most of you have been great in giving help and/or your opinion on my subjects that I've asked about.
2023.06.04 05:48 louis7785 Torque Specs (Kioti NX4510)
Does anyone know the torque specs for the oil and hydraulic drain plugs? What about their filters? I’ve tried looking in my manual but there aren’t any specs to go by.
submitted by louis7785 to tractors [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 05:46 louis7785 Torque Specs (NX4510)
Does someone know the torque specs for the oil drain plugs and filter? Also the same for the hydraulic drain plug and filter? I don’t see any information in my manual and it’s frustrating.
submitted by louis7785 to Kioti [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 04:53 risk71 Prius gurus? Wannabe mech stumped
2010 Prius. Very rough idle. Codes P0016 P0340 P0403 P3190 Back story: Car was running fine, then, one day it started running like it was missing terribly, warning light, check engine, etc.
It ran similar to this event before and we figured out it was the egr cooler fully plugged, and EGR valve.These were replaced. Car ran fine for a while.
Then we had a head gasket issue. We replaced the head gasket. Car ran fine for a while.
Brings us to current event. Driving fine then terrible running, shaking, dash lights up, won't run. This was six months ago. It has sat since then. At the time, the codes were related to the timing/crank and cam sensors being out of sync.
I assumed that the chain, which had never been replaced as far as we know (bought used about 50k ago) either was stretched, the tensioner was bad or possibly slipped a tooth etc.
So, this past week I did the timing chain. New Toyota OEM chain, guides, tensioner, timing sprockets, oil sprockets, oil pump chain. The works.
When disassembling the crank timing oil chain sprocket was found broken right at the keyway. The chain was essentially holding it in place. One the chain was removed it just fell.off The crank sensor timing plate behind it, they keyway was all hammered and the timing sensor plate was sloppy on the crank because the keyway was hammered. This is something I have never seen, granted I've only done about a dozen timing belts and chains in the last 30 years, so I have very limited experience.
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor plate from Toyota. I had the new sprocket already. I assembled everything. Ensuring that the cams and crank were timed correctly, then before putting the covers back on permanently, I spun it by hand and ensured that the crank pulley/dampener and timing marks on the cam sprockets all lined up as they were supposed to. All looked great, so I put it all back together.
Car batteries were dead. Of course from sitting so long. Put a jump pack on it and then turned the car on.
It started. Ran and purred like a kitten for about 10 seconds then started running like it was missing terribly. Shaking etc.
I put it in neutral and it idled fine. Wouldn't increase RPM because the check engine lights and etc all can back on, but it idled in neutral great! Put it in drive with foot on the brake and it started the violent sharing and stumbling, back to neutral, and it idled fine. Back to park and it started shaking and stumbling again.
Shut it off. Cleared the codes.
Started it again. Same behavior as before. Starts. And runs like great for about 10 seconds, then suddenly it doesn't't know what time it is... in neutral, purrs like it's supposed to, into park and shakes and misses like before.
Initially when I saw the broken sprocket and sloppy crank sensor plate, I thought that may have been the reason this all started. The crank sensor couldn't consistently pick up the timing and confused everything else. Now Part of me thinks that this violent shaking and stumbling may have been what broke the sprocket and allowed the key way for the sensor to get sloppy.
So here I am. With the codes above showing.
Could the ECM be bad? What else could be the issue? The oil drained had no coolant. The coolant had no oil.
I need help for further diagnosis.. I am pretty handy.. I know enough to get my self in trouble.. as you can see.
Is there something I can do without tearing down the timing chain cover again?
Edited .. added the below info. I have found that the 12v battery will not hold a charge so I think it was only starting under the power of the jump pack and not the battery. Once the 60 seconds of "start engine" power from the jump pack, times out. The motor dies. Of course in neutral the traction battery does not charge and I can't keep it running in park because of the violent shaking. Could it be just really weak spark? Would the spark voltage required change from park to neutral? It seems so odd that neutral seems to run fine but park/drive no Bueno..
submitted by risk71 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
It ran similar to this event before and we figured out it was the egr cooler fully plugged, and EGR valve.These were replaced. Car ran fine for a while.
Then we had a head gasket issue. We replaced the head gasket. Car ran fine for a while.
Brings us to current event. Driving fine then terrible running, shaking, dash lights up, won't run. This was six months ago. It has sat since then. At the time, the codes were related to the timing/crank and cam sensors being out of sync.
I assumed that the chain, which had never been replaced as far as we know (bought used about 50k ago) either was stretched, the tensioner was bad or possibly slipped a tooth etc.
So, this past week I did the timing chain. New Toyota OEM chain, guides, tensioner, timing sprockets, oil sprockets, oil pump chain. The works.
When disassembling the crank timing oil chain sprocket was found broken right at the keyway. The chain was essentially holding it in place. One the chain was removed it just fell.off The crank sensor timing plate behind it, they keyway was all hammered and the timing sensor plate was sloppy on the crank because the keyway was hammered. This is something I have never seen, granted I've only done about a dozen timing belts and chains in the last 30 years, so I have very limited experience.
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor plate from Toyota. I had the new sprocket already. I assembled everything. Ensuring that the cams and crank were timed correctly, then before putting the covers back on permanently, I spun it by hand and ensured that the crank pulley/dampener and timing marks on the cam sprockets all lined up as they were supposed to. All looked great, so I put it all back together.
Car batteries were dead. Of course from sitting so long. Put a jump pack on it and then turned the car on.
It started. Ran and purred like a kitten for about 10 seconds then started running like it was missing terribly. Shaking etc.
I put it in neutral and it idled fine. Wouldn't increase RPM because the check engine lights and etc all can back on, but it idled in neutral great! Put it in drive with foot on the brake and it started the violent sharing and stumbling, back to neutral, and it idled fine. Back to park and it started shaking and stumbling again.
Shut it off. Cleared the codes.
Started it again. Same behavior as before. Starts. And runs like great for about 10 seconds, then suddenly it doesn't't know what time it is... in neutral, purrs like it's supposed to, into park and shakes and misses like before.
Initially when I saw the broken sprocket and sloppy crank sensor plate, I thought that may have been the reason this all started. The crank sensor couldn't consistently pick up the timing and confused everything else. Now Part of me thinks that this violent shaking and stumbling may have been what broke the sprocket and allowed the key way for the sensor to get sloppy.
So here I am. With the codes above showing.
Could the ECM be bad? What else could be the issue? The oil drained had no coolant. The coolant had no oil.
I need help for further diagnosis.. I am pretty handy.. I know enough to get my self in trouble.. as you can see.
Is there something I can do without tearing down the timing chain cover again?
Edited .. added the below info. I have found that the 12v battery will not hold a charge so I think it was only starting under the power of the jump pack and not the battery. Once the 60 seconds of "start engine" power from the jump pack, times out. The motor dies. Of course in neutral the traction battery does not charge and I can't keep it running in park because of the violent shaking. Could it be just really weak spark? Would the spark voltage required change from park to neutral? It seems so odd that neutral seems to run fine but park/drive no Bueno..
2023.06.04 03:38 Tricktrick_ Oil leaking from oil drain bolt/plug
I was changing my oil one day a while back and accidentally overtightened the bolt not realizing my impact wrench was set to turn clockwise. This obviously messed up my oil drain plug and now there is a slow leak I finally just recently discovered. Explains why I'm having to add oil way before intervals.
The bolts still gets tight so the oil leak is really slow to where I don't see it during oil changes. Doesn't leave a puddle. Then again, I have panel covers under my car catching all the oil so who knows. The panel is definitely kinda saoked in oil so that gave me an idea there was a leak, just not exactly where. Couldn't tell where until a mechanic had my car in the air for unrelated reasons.
What's the best way to fix this? I see re-thread bolt approaches on YouTube but mine is not "stripped" to where it's lose. Still need to take the same approach? Or would just using a slightly bigger bolt be fine?
Thanks
submitted by Tricktrick_ to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
The bolts still gets tight so the oil leak is really slow to where I don't see it during oil changes. Doesn't leave a puddle. Then again, I have panel covers under my car catching all the oil so who knows. The panel is definitely kinda saoked in oil so that gave me an idea there was a leak, just not exactly where. Couldn't tell where until a mechanic had my car in the air for unrelated reasons.
What's the best way to fix this? I see re-thread bolt approaches on YouTube but mine is not "stripped" to where it's lose. Still need to take the same approach? Or would just using a slightly bigger bolt be fine?
Thanks
2023.06.04 03:37 Tricktrick_ Oil leaking from oil drain bolt/plug
I was changing my oil one day a while back and accidentally overtightened the bolt not realizing my impact wrench was set to turn clockwise. This obviously messed up my oil drain plug and now there is a slow leak I finally just recently discovered. Explains why I'm having to add oil way before intervals.
The bolts still gets tight so the oil leak is really slow to where I don't see it during oil changes. Doesn't leave a puddle. Then again, I have panel covers under my car catching all the oil so who knows. The panel is definitely kinda saoked in oil so that gave me an idea there was a leak, just not exactly where. Couldn't tell where until a mechanic had my car in the air for unrelated reasons.
What's the best way to fix this? I see re-thread bolt approaches on YouTube but mine is not "stripped" to where it's lose. Still need to take the same approach? Or would just using a slightly bigger bolt be fine?
Thanks
submitted by Tricktrick_ to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
The bolts still gets tight so the oil leak is really slow to where I don't see it during oil changes. Doesn't leave a puddle. Then again, I have panel covers under my car catching all the oil so who knows. The panel is definitely kinda saoked in oil so that gave me an idea there was a leak, just not exactly where. Couldn't tell where until a mechanic had my car in the air for unrelated reasons.
What's the best way to fix this? I see re-thread bolt approaches on YouTube but mine is not "stripped" to where it's lose. Still need to take the same approach? Or would just using a slightly bigger bolt be fine?
Thanks
2023.06.04 02:54 Comprehensive_Paint2 Is my oil pan seeping or leaking from drain plug?
 | submitted by Comprehensive_Paint2 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 01:53 BochToyotaSouthParts 1988-2022 Toyota Lower Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket - 9043012031
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submitted by BochToyotaSouthParts to u/BochToyotaSouthParts [link] [comments]
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2023.06.03 22:44 Unusual_Roof_6096 WK2 Oil filter and oil pan plug torque spec?
Anyone happen to know what torque setting to use to tighten the oil filter cap as well as the pan plug/screw? I noticed there are a lot of YouTube videos on how to change the oil but no one seems to mention any torque setting.
submitted by Unusual_Roof_6096 to GrandCherokee [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 21:51 Alucard805 Problems while installing fuel pack
Got an 07 nighttrain bad ass bike. I got these Vance and Hines big shots on and a k&n open air filter and the bike runs slightly lean so I purchased a fuel pack to run it a bit closer to rich, bike runs good but it needs a tune it can breath stronger and has a slight sluggishness to it. I pulled my plugs before installing the fuel pack and decided to put fresh ones. I installed new plugs (ngk iridium.039 gap) but left wire broke the metal tap inside that grabs the plug came right out and stayed on my plug I connected it as is to see if it would still run . Bike fired right up and was running fine. While torquing plugs to spec ( 14 lbs) I cracked the plastic part of the plug like a jackass so I got a fresh set from Harley after I installed, with the fucked up spark plug wire metal connector coming apart again, I installed the fuel pack programmed it with the info for my bike and parts and I cranked it 4-5 times and it wouldn’t fire up. sounded like the right piston was firing but couldn’t fully fire up cause I assume the left piston wasn’t getting spark. Pulled out the spark plugs and the left side was coated in gas while the right side was dry. Went to Harley to get a new pair of wires and I got a pair of screaming eagle. My dumbass quickly realized I got a set of wires for a distributor that’s mounted on the side of the motor so I got a long wire and a short one. I said fuck it I’ll use the long one for now just to see if it fires up and then I’ll get the right pair of wires some time soon. Bike wouldn’t fire up I suspect I messed up somewhere in tuning the fuel pack so i removed it and went back to just stock ecu and I cranked it once no start and then battery died. What should I do next? I’m thinking of just charging the battery and try to get it to start. Might be a dumb question but if I’m using just one new spark plug wire it should still pass current properly right? I don’t think that’s the problem but might be.
submitted by Alucard805 to Harley [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 21:41 ixipaulixi Changed my oil and rotated my tires for the first time
 | First time changing my own oil and first time rotating my tires. It was a breeze thanks to HF tools. submitted by ixipaulixi to harborfreight [link] [comments] Lessons learned:
|
2023.06.03 17:37 RyzenFrontier Oil change question
Hey all! I have a 2009 MGM and did an oil change yesterday(first one, however im very educated with cars in general). All went well except i have a slow drip leak of oil from the drain bolt. I used the previous crush washer and torqued the bolt to 10ft-lb then to 13 after noticing it was still leaking. Oil filter is leak free however the leak i have now wasnt there before i did the change. Im relatively confident i didnt cross thread the bolt, as it felt cross threaded the first time then corrected it and felt better. Any ideas going forward?
submitted by RyzenFrontier to CrownVictoria [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 17:14 redbolt95 19 tundra 5.7 crank no start
I'm working on a 2019 Tundra 5.7L that has a crank no start. using an ethos edge scan tool, only codes I get are 1603 engine stall history, 1604 start ability malfunction, and a 1605 rough idle which are pretty generic. Clearing codes and cranking the engine over it started for 3 seconds before it stopped running and reset the 1604 start ability malfunction code only. Now clearing codes and cranking the engine over, it will not start at all and just cranks. This vehicle has been back several times in the past 12 months. first visit was a crank no start, I found a connector plugged into a dummy connector in a multi connector box in the engine bay and not the proper plug. The vehicle went several months before returning again with a crank no start. I replaced the battery (bad cell) and the Fuel pump control module (no output voltage) and the vehicle ran for several more months before returning. Third visit again a crank no start. I replaced the fuel pump as well as corrected the terminal tension on the fuel pump connector due to low terminal drag. The vehicle ran for another several months before they claimed the fuel gauge was not working and staying on "E" at all times. was unable to duplicate and after filling their tank to different increments and test driving, verifying the fuel level sensor was working properly and did no repairs. Vehicle now has returned again several months later with a crank no start. disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and no fuel is coming out when cranking. verified gas tank is 3/4 full. the fuel pump is getting proper voltage and the ohms on the ground circuit are within spec. I have checked all the ground on the vehicle's frame/engine to ensure no loose ground connections. I know very little about Toyotas and Alldata gives no description on those 3 codes previously mentioned. any advice on what to check next?
submitted by redbolt95 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
2023.06.03 15:44 NoU4206911 [USA-IN] [H] O11D+VerticalMount, Fans, Watercooling, Modded Keyboard + Accessories, ATH M50X, Wacom Intuos CTH-480 [W] Paypal, Local Cash
Looking to downsize and get rid of things I no longer have a use for. Feel free to offer on anything, but I'd prefer to bundle as much as possible. Local is 47403.
BNIB EVGA Z12 Membrane gaming keyboards $15 (local only unless you're paying shipping)
Keyboard Accessories Bundle:Used Turquoise Resin Wrist RestUsed Gateron Milky Yellow Switches (Lubed and filmed)Used KBDFans Cherry Profile Cement Gray Japanese PBT KeycapsUsed Corsair Double-shot PBT keycapsUsed TaiHao ABS black/red/white keycaps (spares)Used RGB Shine-through PBT ASA LavaCaps (spares)$120 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/tQsrIbT
Wacom Intuos CTH-480 that has seen minimal use and has very little cosmetic damage on the back side. One of the best tablets you can use for osu! due to hover height and responsive latency.$60 shipped
GE UltraPro Surge Protector used for maybe a year including 7 outlets and 2 usb ports, 4 foot cord and 1500 joule protection rating$20 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/wDYSjNG
I'd also be willing to trade for a G-Wolves HSK Pro/Ace mouse.
submitted by NoU4206911 to hardwareswap [link] [comments]
Case: https://imgur.com/a/DFkCKuy
| Lian Li O11D (Original) | https://lian-li.com/product/pc-o11-dynamic/ | Has been used for 2 years, nothing wrong with it as far as I could tell during disassembly. I do have the original box and accessories. | Looking to sell locally, unless someone is willing to pay for shipping. Ideally bundled with the other 2 parts. If not, I'd sell separately for $75 |
|---|---|---|---|
| LINKUP - EZ Vertical GPU Bracket (Gen4x16) | https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Vertical-Bracket-Graphic-Holdedp/B091Q95ZXM?th=1 | Apparently this is relatively universal, but I haven't looked for a list of compatible cases. I do not have the original box or any theoretical accessories. | Looking to sell locally, bundled with the case. Otherwise, I'd ask $50 Local or $60 shipped |
| Bitspower Touchaqua Sedna O11D | https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/bitspower-touchaqua-sedna-o11d-for-lian-li-o11-dynamic-front-pwm.html | I only ever ran clear fluid in this, but I also just deep cleaned it. The pump can be replaced with a DDC unlike some of the other Bitspower Distros that require you purchase their proprietary pump. I do not have the original box or the included opaque panel. | Looking to sell locally, bundled with the case. Otherwise, I'd ask $120 local or $130 shipped |
Fans: https://imgur.com/a/YDFyg0s
| Arctic P12 PWM PST | https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-PWM-PST-Connessione/dp/B07GJGF56L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3I5FKDOJ9ZYG0&keywords=Arctic+p12+pwm+pst&qid=1685755682&s=industrial&sprefix=arctic+p12+pwm+ps%2Cindustrial%2C98&sr=1-3 | Used these for a couple years. Came together in a pack of 5. From what I can recall, one of them has an inconsistent bearing, but maybe it was just a symptom of my case and vertical mount placement. These were cleaned well, before posting. | Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $20 shipped |
|---|---|---|---|
| Arctic P12 PWM PST (SLIM) | https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-Slim-PWM-PST/dp/B08QDKGCCW?th=1 | Used two of these for a couple years, but one is brand new. These were cleaned well, before posting. | Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $20 shipped |
| ID-Cooling NO-12015-XT ARGB | https://www.amazon.com/ID-COOLING-Cooling-Cooler-Raidator-Chassis/dp/B09Z65X5RW | Used two of these for a couple years, but one is brand new. These were cleaned well, before posting. These also come with aftermarket spacers in case you want to mount them as intake on certain cases that cause issue. One of them has some yellowing in the center of the fan that can be seen if RGB is used. | Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell these separately for $25 shipped |
| Thermalright TL-C12C-S X3 | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKKFBR9R | Brand new. | These are too cheap to bother selling separately, but I will gladly bundle them. |
| CoolerMaster MF120 Halo | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081W8Y4F7 | Brand new. | Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell this separately for $20 shipped |
| Noctua NF-F12 Redux 1700RPM | https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=AK0SHCM09GKJ&keywords=NF-F12+redux&qid=1685755822&s=electronics&sprefix=nf-f12+redux%2Celectronics%2C94&sr=1-3 | Used, but perfectly functional and clean, 120mm PWM Pressure optimized fan. Includes the multi-colored anti-vibration pads. Apparently the P12 is the budget variant of the F12, but they're probably close to identical. | Hoping to bundle all of these, but I suppose I'd sell this separately for $15 shipped |
Watercooling: https://imgur.com/a/j7IUT8N
| Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm Radiator | https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-NexXxos-Copper-Radiator-Triple/dp/B007R79E60 | I used this once or twice over the span of 2 years, with clear fluids. It has a bit of discoloration in the exterior fins, but it worked fine for me. I flushed it recently with my hose and shook it quite vigorously, but you may want to do your own cleaning anyways. | I'm hoping to bundle most of this watercooling gear; otherwise, I'd sell this separately for $30 local, or $40 shipped |
|---|---|---|---|
| EKWB Coolstream Classic PE 360 | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-classic-pe-360 | I used this for 2 years with clear fluid, but there was some plasticizer leach from my soft tubing. I tried my best to clean it via flushing with the above method, but you might want to do your own cleaning anyways. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $60 local, or $70 shipped |
| EK-Loop Leak Tester Flex | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-leak-tester-flex | I don't think this was used more than a single time. I bought it second hand, but I was told it had been purchased in March. I already have a Barrow leak tester. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $25 shipped |
| EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical | I can't recall how much use this saw, probably a couple builds. Has a bit of cosmetic damage. | Bundle only |
| EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-140mm-fan-vertical | I can't recall how much use this saw, probably a single build. Might have a bit of cosmetic damage. | Bundle only |
| XSPC G1/4" Plug with 10k Sensor - Chrome | https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/fittings-connectors/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor-chrome-xspc-g14-10k-sensor-ch.html | Brand new | Otherwise, I'd sell for $12 shipped |
| Thermaltake Pacific C-PRO G1/4 16mm (5/8") OD Compression – Chrome (6 total) | https://www.thermaltake.com/pacific-c-pro-g1-4-petg-tube-16mm-od-compression-chrome-6-pack-fittings.html | bit of plasticizer leach, but still fully functional. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $30 shipped |
| Thermaltake Pacific G1/4 16mm (5/8”) OD Compression – Chrome (6 total) | https://es.thermaltake.com/thermaltake-pacific-g1-4-petg-tube-16mm-5-8-od-compression-chrome.html | Don't think these were used much at all. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $20 local, or $30 shipped |
| G1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 90-Degree Extender (7 total) | https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=643 | Used throughout a few builds, bit of cosmetic damage or plasticizer leach. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $30 local, or $40 shipped |
| Corsair Hydro X Series, 90° Rotary Adapter - Chrome (4 total) | https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Durability-Securely-Rotation-Mechanism/dp/B07WJVDNBB | Used throughout a few builds, bit of cosmetic damage if anything. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $15 local, or $20 shipped |
| Corsair Hydro X Series, Dual G1/4" 90-Degree Extender | I don't know what the hell this monstrosity is. Maybe it is corsair, maybe it isn't. | Only time I ever made use of this was when I needed to plumb a ball valve drain (they typically have a female g1/4). Has lots of cosmetic damage from attempting to remove the other end. The colors don't even match LOL. | Bundle only |
| Bitspower G1/4" Extender-30MM - Chrome (2 total) | https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2309 | One is basically brand new and the other has a not so insignificant amount of plasticizer leach I cannot remove with soapy water. | Bundle Only |
| Bitspower Rotary Fitting "Q" - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory | https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/fittings-connectors/bitspower-rotary-fitting-q-360-degree-water-cooling-accessory-black-sparkle-finish.html | Bit of plasticizer leach in the top g1/4 threads. | Bundle Only |
| Alphacool 2-Way Ball Valve G1/4 | https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-17141-Black-Hardware-Cooling-Accessory/dp/B015YRMCPO | Used this in a couple builds. bit of cosmetic damage but fully functional and clean. | Bundle Only |
| EK-Quantum Torque Drain Valve | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-torque-drain-valve-black | Probably also only used once. Bought with the EK leak tester. | Bundle Only |
| EK-Quantum Torque 90 Degree Rotary - Nickle (6 total) | https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-torque-angled-90-black | One of them has a bit of cosmetic staining | Bundle Only |
| Primochill Liquid Utopia | https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-liquid-utopia-15ml-bottle | Bought this recent from frozencpu's sale but there doesn't appear to be a way to identify any manufacturers date. | Bundle Only |
| NZXT Kraken G12 GPU Cooling Bracket | https://nzxt.com/product/kraken-g12 | Came with some other stuff I bought, but I'll never use this. It is used, and I did my best to clean it up. | Otherwise, I'd sell for $15 local, $25 shipped |
| upHere GPU Anti-sag brace | https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B076GYL25H | Used a couple times; cosmetic damage where the screw sits. | Bundle Only |
Keyboard stuff:
Used Tezarre TK61 Pudding Keycap Optical Hotswap Keyboard: (Tape/Band-aid Mod, Lubed stabilizers + Gateron optical blacks) $55 shippedBNIB EVGA Z12 Membrane gaming keyboards $15 (local only unless you're paying shipping)
Keyboard Accessories Bundle:Used Turquoise Resin Wrist RestUsed Gateron Milky Yellow Switches (Lubed and filmed)Used KBDFans Cherry Profile Cement Gray Japanese PBT KeycapsUsed Corsair Double-shot PBT keycapsUsed TaiHao ABS black/red/white keycaps (spares)Used RGB Shine-through PBT ASA LavaCaps (spares)$120 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/tQsrIbT
Peripherals:
ATH M50X headphones that were used a couple years (hence the pleather having been taken off due to peeling). These probably could use a new pair of earpads, but I did my best to deep clean these.$45 shippedWacom Intuos CTH-480 that has seen minimal use and has very little cosmetic damage on the back side. One of the best tablets you can use for osu! due to hover height and responsive latency.$60 shipped
GE UltraPro Surge Protector used for maybe a year including 7 outlets and 2 usb ports, 4 foot cord and 1500 joule protection rating$20 shipped
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/wDYSjNG
I'd also be willing to trade for a G-Wolves HSK Pro/Ace mouse.
2023.06.03 05:26 AOPFAST 12mm Crush Washer Oil Drain Plug OEM 11026-JA00A Replacement for Nissan/...
 | submitted by AOPFAST to u/AOPFAST [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 01:22 T_Streuer How does this idle noise sound?
 | Hey friends, My freshly rebuilt (diy) 4age makes this noise at idle, it gets noticeably quieter when it’s fully warmed up. submitted by T_Streuer to mr2 [link] [comments] I’ve now checked and adjusted valve tolerances as best I can without moving valve buckets around. To me it doesn’t sound like a rod knock, and pulling plug wires doesn’t change the noise (this diagnostic method is from a local shop, Im not sure the efficacy of it). I’ve heard of TVIS rattle being a similar noise and my TVIS bushings are definitely fairly worn out. Also due to parts availability I installed aftermarket pistons and the shop that was going to press the new pins offered to hone the rod end up to a slip fit (the new pistons have c clip channels) so maybe that wrist pin tolerances is loose? All other bearing surfaces were plastigaged and were within stock specs. It makes good oil pressure even fully warmed up so I’m guessing it isn’t a bearing failure, but I’d love to hear some opinions! Thanks |
2023.06.02 20:54 GLIsaghost 2016 2.5l coils/plugs/motor mount torque specs?
Can someone tell me the torque specs for the coils/plugs/motor mounts?
submitted by GLIsaghost to subarulegacy [link] [comments]
2023.06.02 20:09 SuperDooper900 Dorsoduro 900 Oil Change Procedure
If you’ve never tried to change your oil before, don’t fear it!Taking care of oil changes is a straightforward task, easily learned, and may inspire you to learn more about your precious bike.
Drive bike at least 10 miles to fully heat engine oil.
Using a cloth, carefully clean the area of any dirt deposits around the filling cap
• Place a container with a capacity of more than 4000 cm³ (244 cu in) under the drainage plug (a little over one gallon)
• Unscrew and remove the drainage plug
• Unscrew and remove the filler plug
Drain the oil into the container; allow several minutes for oil to drain out completely.
• Replace the drainage plug with new sealing crush washer. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE DRAINAGE PLUG!
• Remove any metal scrap attached to the drainage plug magnet.
• Screw and tighten the drainage plug
• Replace the oil filter.
• Fill to the correct engine oil level, with recommended engine oil. (I use the Motul 5100 4T 15W50 Synthetic Blend. Buy it on Amazon, $43.42 for a one gallon container, more than enough for an oil change.
Filters and crush washers are available from AF1Racing.com (they have the oil too, but it’s much cheaper from Amazon)
submitted by SuperDooper900 to Dorsoduro_900 [link] [comments]
Drive bike at least 10 miles to fully heat engine oil.
Using a cloth, carefully clean the area of any dirt deposits around the filling cap
• Place a container with a capacity of more than 4000 cm³ (244 cu in) under the drainage plug (a little over one gallon)
• Unscrew and remove the drainage plug
• Unscrew and remove the filler plug
Drain the oil into the container; allow several minutes for oil to drain out completely.
• Replace the drainage plug with new sealing crush washer. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE DRAINAGE PLUG!
• Remove any metal scrap attached to the drainage plug magnet.
• Screw and tighten the drainage plug
• Replace the oil filter.
• Fill to the correct engine oil level, with recommended engine oil. (I use the Motul 5100 4T 15W50 Synthetic Blend. Buy it on Amazon, $43.42 for a one gallon container, more than enough for an oil change.
Filters and crush washers are available from AF1Racing.com (they have the oil too, but it’s much cheaper from Amazon)
2023.06.02 17:56 Both-Possibility-499 19f (with no experience) wanting to do and oil and filter change
*an, bless I can’t spell
I have full faith after watching some tutorials that I could do an oil and filter change on my 2009 Toyota Camry, but my mom doesn't think I should. What do y'all think is best? Should I just pay to get it done, or do it myself?
The main motivation is money. I can't afford to get it changed right now (none of us can), and even the cheapest place here is double what I'd pay just doing it on my own. I have been doing the research, and we have all the tools (bin, ratchets, and jack/stand) since my dad used to change out the oil. My grandpa also said he'd supervise. I honestly think the hardest part will be having enough physical torque to unscrew the oil plug.
If y’all think I could (with supervision lol!) here are some questions I have: 1) Will my manual say if I have a gasket on my oil plug, and if I need to replace it? Or will I just have to undo it and see? 2) Do y’all have opinions on pre-oiling your oil filter?
Thank y’all!!! 4m Reply ↑
submitted by Both-Possibility-499 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
I have full faith after watching some tutorials that I could do an oil and filter change on my 2009 Toyota Camry, but my mom doesn't think I should. What do y'all think is best? Should I just pay to get it done, or do it myself?
The main motivation is money. I can't afford to get it changed right now (none of us can), and even the cheapest place here is double what I'd pay just doing it on my own. I have been doing the research, and we have all the tools (bin, ratchets, and jack/stand) since my dad used to change out the oil. My grandpa also said he'd supervise. I honestly think the hardest part will be having enough physical torque to unscrew the oil plug.
If y’all think I could (with supervision lol!) here are some questions I have: 1) Will my manual say if I have a gasket on my oil plug, and if I need to replace it? Or will I just have to undo it and see? 2) Do y’all have opinions on pre-oiling your oil filter?
Thank y’all!!! 4m Reply ↑
2023.06.02 17:48 Bebetterkeepfightin Help with BMW x1 2015
Our car wont start. Back story! We took our car to Valvoline for oil change on Saturday. They where doing some normal checking beside changing the oil. They thought our break light was out but after they changed it wasn’t. They put it back in. We drove it fine on Sunday. On Monday our car alarm went off for hours which we didn’t know until we got a call from from our condo. By the time, it seemed like the battery was dead, I couldn’t used the key fob and couldn’t stop the alarm. Then the alarm stopped itself( maybe battery completely dead) We were able to jumpstart it but we didn’t drive our car. The next morning, we couldn’t start our car again. We jumpstarted in the evening and made sure to drive for about 15 mins. The car was fine on Wednesday when we drove around. Thursday morning, the car couldn’t start again. This time we jumped started and took it to a mechanic. We told them what was going on. They said it could be something wrong with the program that drained the battery or the battery needed to be changed or it wasn’t fully charged. They tested the battery and do the 85% charged and said the battery wasn’t a problem. We thought it could be a baby monitor that we didn’t unplug while parking. Because it was holiday weekend. They close on Friday and wont be open until Tuesday. We took it home hoping it would be fine and make sure we didn’t leave anything plugged in while parking. Friday the car was fine. Saturday we took an hour trip away trip to the mountain the car was fine. Sunday, we drove a bit in the morning and afternoon, it was fine. Monday morning it didn’t start again. We took our car into the same shop and left it overnight. The mechanic could not locate any draw on battery. They checked a few things including alternator and everything looked fine. We were supposed to pickup out car this morning but just got a call that the car couldn’t start and they will try to look at it again.
Is there anything else we could try? How much should I be expecting for a repair cost for this situation?
submitted by Bebetterkeepfightin to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
Is there anything else we could try? How much should I be expecting for a repair cost for this situation?
2023.06.02 17:32 Bebetterkeepfightin Help with BMW x1 2015
Our car wont start. Back story! We took our car to Valvoline for oil change on Saturday. They where doing some normal checking beside changing the oil. They thought our break light was out but after they changed it wasn’t. They put it back in. We drove it fine on Sunday. On Monday our car alarm went off for hours which we didn’t know until we got a call from from our condo. By the time, it seemed like the battery was dead, I couldn’t used the key fob and couldn’t stop the alarm. Then the alarm stopped itself( maybe battery completely dead) We were able to jumpstart it but we didn’t drive our car. The next morning, we couldn’t start our car again. We jumpstarted in the evening and made sure to drive for about 15 mins. The car was fine on Wednesday when we drove around. Thursday morning, the car couldn’t start again. This time we jumped started and took it to a mechanic. We told them what was going on. They said it could be something wrong with the program that drained the battery or the battery needed to be changed or it wasn’t fully charged. They tested the battery and do the 85% charged and said the battery wasn’t a problem. We thought it could be a baby monitor that we didn’t unplug while parking. Because it was holiday weekend. They close on Friday and wont be open until Tuesday. We took it home hoping it would be fine and make sure we didn’t leave anything plugged in while parking. Friday the car was fine. Saturday we took an hour trip away trip to the mountain the car was fine. Sunday, we drove a bit in the morning and afternoon, it was fine. Monday morning it didn’t start again. We took our car into the same shop and left it overnight. The mechanic could not locate any draw on battery. They checked a few things including alternator and everything looked fine. We were supposed to pickup out car this morning but just got a call that the car couldn’t start and they will try to look at it again.
Is there anything else we could try? How much should I be expecting for a repair cost for this situation?
submitted by Bebetterkeepfightin to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Is there anything else we could try? How much should I be expecting for a repair cost for this situation?