Cub cadet lt1045 spark plug
2004 crv hard start and vibration at idle
2023.06.04 15:02 Impossible-Horror-26 2004 crv hard start and vibration at idle
I have a 2004 crv and I've been noticing recently that when I start the car it will crank maybe 5 or 6 times before sort of hesitating and then starting with a big vibration. The idle will eventually drop pretty low, maybe to 600 and it will cause vibration in the steering wheel and when placing your hand on the engine. When giving it just a tiny bit of revs its perfectly smooth. The ac makes this vibration worse. Any idea what this may be?
The throttle body is clean, the spark plugs are replaced, all the fluids are good. Car is the 5 speed manual with 106k miles. Drives really well when not at idle.
submitted by Impossible-Horror-26 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
The throttle body is clean, the spark plugs are replaced, all the fluids are good. Car is the 5 speed manual with 106k miles. Drives really well when not at idle.
2023.06.04 14:27 RobertThePersian JK 3.6 Pentastar with persistent oil filter housing leak.
Long story short: about to be installing my fifth oil filter housing assembly in eight months.
The Jeep: 2016 RHD JK with 100k+ miles, used for mail delivery that I've owned for four years. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage Synthetic before the new engine which has had whatever Mopar oil the dealership put in. Also, I do use a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 18 ft. lbs. at every oil change, which I've been doing around every 3,000 miles because of the intense use.
I came home one day in October 2022 and noticed something that caught my eye on the garage floor underneath my Jeep. I looked and there was oil running underneath my Jeep on the backside of the oil pan and along where the inspection plugs are at on the bell housing, and had the transmission pan covered. I looked in the engine bay and I could tell the valve cover gaskets were wet (this will become somewhat relevant later). I checked the dipstick and noticed I was down a half-quart of oil. I got in touch with a local shop that has a good rep within my small community and the mechanic said it wasn't my valve covers, that I had an oil filter housing leak that was just running along the valve cover. I wanted him to do the work because I wasn't super-eager about reassembling the intake and I needed new spark plugs anyways (this will also come back later), so that overlaps well enough. It took him a month to get around to it, I drove my backup a lot in the meantime, and the bill for spark plugs and the oil filter ended up being $660. That's how I got Oil Filter Housing #2.
But the Jeep kept leaking oil.
I took it back to the local mechanic the next chance I got, a couple of weeks later. He said he'd look at it that day, I guess he did, and assured me it was probably old oil that was still stuck along the way. I was skeptical; after probably fifty hours of use, any old oil should have run off or burned off a bit ago. The Jeep keeps on leaking oil, even after I do an oil change. I take it back and the local mechanic pours some dye in and tells me to come back in a day and he will look and see if it's still leaking fresh oil. Local mechanic finds that it is and he reinstalls the oil filter housing, free of charge to me.
We had a wet and icy winter in the central US that kept the garage floor and the bell housing and the transmission pan cleaned off so I didn't notice a lot of oil getting on the floor but I did have to keep the Jeep topped off, losing a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm figuring that's not super unusual for a Pentastar with 100k+ on the clock and I'm busy and don't have time to have the Jeep laid up in the weather that I bought it for. When spring comes around I start to notice the leak again. At this point I'm starting to suspect a rear main seal more than oil filter housing but the inspection holes are still dry.
One weekend in March, I did an oil change on a Sunday afternoon. The next day (Monday, the perfect day of the week for this to happen), I'm heading out to load my Jeep and I notice a gigantic puddle of something underneath my Jeep. It looks to me like the front crankshaft seal just pissed itself. I feel the puddle and the liquid is slick, like oil. It's also barely above 32F outside, and all the liquid I can see is running underneath the crankshaft pulley. Oil stick still looks OK though. I panic drive the Jeep back home and get it in the garage, put a mat under it, get my backup and do my route. I try to get a local shop (the one I went to before or any others within ten miles, which is about as far as I estimate it can go) to see if they can get my Jeep in but they refuse to take it because they are too busy. I call a Jeep dealership a couple of towns over that has a good reputation (as opposed to the one a town over, but owned by the same company, that doesn't) and have it towed there. I tell them about the immediate problem and the oil leak I've been having. The service advisor, who I have to say is one of the better ones I've ever worked with on anything, calls me back and tell me that it wasn't the crank seal, it was the water pump. They also noticed I had some rocker arms going bad. I tell them that I had noticed that too (I had always heard that Jeep dealerships wouldn't look at rockers until a check engine light came on otherwise I'd have taken care of this a year or two ago) and that they would replace those. The oil leak looked to be coming out of the oil filter housing and the valve covers (the same thing I thought six months ago). To skip ahead through a couple of phone calls, the rockers on the left bank of the Pentastar were also bad and a cam over there was damaged. I could have all of that repaired for $5300 or just install a reman engine + the oil filter housing for around $8k, which would include a three year, 100k mile parts & labor warranty. After thinking about what else could continue going wrong, I ended up telling them to put a reman in. I get over to the dealership to pick up my Jeep after it's all said and done and the SA says "Oh, we had to put new spark plugs in, the old ones were junk and weren't really for that vehicle." My opinion of the trusted local mechanic really has gone downhill but I'm thrilled to have all of their bullshit behind me. That's the story of how I got Oil Filter Housing #3.
Things are going fine with the Jeep, not hearing any crazy noises, but it does occur to me to check the oil after about 1,000 miles. I check and it's about a half-quart low. My eyebrows are raised but I think, "well maybe the dealership only put 5.5 quarts in." I top it off with some Mobil 1 I had around, and continue on as normal. After about 2600 miles on the new motor, I decide to check it again and the oil level is barely registering on the dipstick. I look underneath the Jeep and the back of the pan and the bell housing are all covered with oil again (nothing's on the transmission pan, curiously enough). I look up top and I can see oil coming out below where the filter is (which I haven't even touched on this engine). I top off the Jeep (with Mobil 1 again, which I thought about but that didn't make the Jeep oil level low to start with), call the dealership, and they conclude that it is oil filter housing and they replace the oil filter housing and change the oil, all under warranty and it didn't cost me a dime. That's Oil Filter Housing #4.
I got my Jeep back Wednesday of last week. Besides driving it home, I drove my backup vehicle on Thursday and drove the Jeep on the route on Friday & Saturday (yesterday). There's an empty church parking lot I usually stop at and re-sort and reorganize my parcels in. I decided to have a peek underneath just to check things out and sure enough, right on the bottom side of the bell housing once again. I'm going to be calling the dealership back first chance I get this week, so I guess this will be Oil Filter Housing #5.
So that's the full background.
My question is, are there any other causes for this besides just coincidentally bad workmanship spread across multiple mechanics and companies, or have Mopar parts quality just gotten this bad? Is there anything I can bring up to the Jeep SA that might be making these oil filter housing assemblies fail? I'm completely out of ideas here.
submitted by RobertThePersian to Wrangler [link] [comments]
The Jeep: 2016 RHD JK with 100k+ miles, used for mail delivery that I've owned for four years. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage Synthetic before the new engine which has had whatever Mopar oil the dealership put in. Also, I do use a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 18 ft. lbs. at every oil change, which I've been doing around every 3,000 miles because of the intense use.
I came home one day in October 2022 and noticed something that caught my eye on the garage floor underneath my Jeep. I looked and there was oil running underneath my Jeep on the backside of the oil pan and along where the inspection plugs are at on the bell housing, and had the transmission pan covered. I looked in the engine bay and I could tell the valve cover gaskets were wet (this will become somewhat relevant later). I checked the dipstick and noticed I was down a half-quart of oil. I got in touch with a local shop that has a good rep within my small community and the mechanic said it wasn't my valve covers, that I had an oil filter housing leak that was just running along the valve cover. I wanted him to do the work because I wasn't super-eager about reassembling the intake and I needed new spark plugs anyways (this will also come back later), so that overlaps well enough. It took him a month to get around to it, I drove my backup a lot in the meantime, and the bill for spark plugs and the oil filter ended up being $660. That's how I got Oil Filter Housing #2.
But the Jeep kept leaking oil.
I took it back to the local mechanic the next chance I got, a couple of weeks later. He said he'd look at it that day, I guess he did, and assured me it was probably old oil that was still stuck along the way. I was skeptical; after probably fifty hours of use, any old oil should have run off or burned off a bit ago. The Jeep keeps on leaking oil, even after I do an oil change. I take it back and the local mechanic pours some dye in and tells me to come back in a day and he will look and see if it's still leaking fresh oil. Local mechanic finds that it is and he reinstalls the oil filter housing, free of charge to me.
We had a wet and icy winter in the central US that kept the garage floor and the bell housing and the transmission pan cleaned off so I didn't notice a lot of oil getting on the floor but I did have to keep the Jeep topped off, losing a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm figuring that's not super unusual for a Pentastar with 100k+ on the clock and I'm busy and don't have time to have the Jeep laid up in the weather that I bought it for. When spring comes around I start to notice the leak again. At this point I'm starting to suspect a rear main seal more than oil filter housing but the inspection holes are still dry.
One weekend in March, I did an oil change on a Sunday afternoon. The next day (Monday, the perfect day of the week for this to happen), I'm heading out to load my Jeep and I notice a gigantic puddle of something underneath my Jeep. It looks to me like the front crankshaft seal just pissed itself. I feel the puddle and the liquid is slick, like oil. It's also barely above 32F outside, and all the liquid I can see is running underneath the crankshaft pulley. Oil stick still looks OK though. I panic drive the Jeep back home and get it in the garage, put a mat under it, get my backup and do my route. I try to get a local shop (the one I went to before or any others within ten miles, which is about as far as I estimate it can go) to see if they can get my Jeep in but they refuse to take it because they are too busy. I call a Jeep dealership a couple of towns over that has a good reputation (as opposed to the one a town over, but owned by the same company, that doesn't) and have it towed there. I tell them about the immediate problem and the oil leak I've been having. The service advisor, who I have to say is one of the better ones I've ever worked with on anything, calls me back and tell me that it wasn't the crank seal, it was the water pump. They also noticed I had some rocker arms going bad. I tell them that I had noticed that too (I had always heard that Jeep dealerships wouldn't look at rockers until a check engine light came on otherwise I'd have taken care of this a year or two ago) and that they would replace those. The oil leak looked to be coming out of the oil filter housing and the valve covers (the same thing I thought six months ago). To skip ahead through a couple of phone calls, the rockers on the left bank of the Pentastar were also bad and a cam over there was damaged. I could have all of that repaired for $5300 or just install a reman engine + the oil filter housing for around $8k, which would include a three year, 100k mile parts & labor warranty. After thinking about what else could continue going wrong, I ended up telling them to put a reman in. I get over to the dealership to pick up my Jeep after it's all said and done and the SA says "Oh, we had to put new spark plugs in, the old ones were junk and weren't really for that vehicle." My opinion of the trusted local mechanic really has gone downhill but I'm thrilled to have all of their bullshit behind me. That's the story of how I got Oil Filter Housing #3.
Things are going fine with the Jeep, not hearing any crazy noises, but it does occur to me to check the oil after about 1,000 miles. I check and it's about a half-quart low. My eyebrows are raised but I think, "well maybe the dealership only put 5.5 quarts in." I top it off with some Mobil 1 I had around, and continue on as normal. After about 2600 miles on the new motor, I decide to check it again and the oil level is barely registering on the dipstick. I look underneath the Jeep and the back of the pan and the bell housing are all covered with oil again (nothing's on the transmission pan, curiously enough). I look up top and I can see oil coming out below where the filter is (which I haven't even touched on this engine). I top off the Jeep (with Mobil 1 again, which I thought about but that didn't make the Jeep oil level low to start with), call the dealership, and they conclude that it is oil filter housing and they replace the oil filter housing and change the oil, all under warranty and it didn't cost me a dime. That's Oil Filter Housing #4.
I got my Jeep back Wednesday of last week. Besides driving it home, I drove my backup vehicle on Thursday and drove the Jeep on the route on Friday & Saturday (yesterday). There's an empty church parking lot I usually stop at and re-sort and reorganize my parcels in. I decided to have a peek underneath just to check things out and sure enough, right on the bottom side of the bell housing once again. I'm going to be calling the dealership back first chance I get this week, so I guess this will be Oil Filter Housing #5.
So that's the full background.
My question is, are there any other causes for this besides just coincidentally bad workmanship spread across multiple mechanics and companies, or have Mopar parts quality just gotten this bad? Is there anything I can bring up to the Jeep SA that might be making these oil filter housing assemblies fail? I'm completely out of ideas here.
2023.06.04 14:20 Disastrous-Truck1577 Flashing CEL is the P1326 code.
2017 Santa Fe sport 2.0 So just looking for other people’s adventure with the p1326 code for the knock sensor going off.
Background: I’m second owner have maintained this car to the T since purchase at 33k. At 86k mi the car lost power on the highway I was able to just coast off and exit had it towed to my mechanic who said take it to Hyundai. This car did burn oil a little under 1 quart every 1k which from what I’ve read and heard isn’t enough to get them to do anything. Hyundai said it was an injector it was not. There was no compression in cyl 3. Eventually they discovered a burnt valve which requires replacing the engine. Which was done under my extended warranty. I did some other stuff while they were in there like spark plugs the other injectors just to be safe and know my car will get me where I need to go.
It’s been 1800 miles since, then I went through a car wash, less than a mile later the check engine light is blinking. Luckily I was on my street, I put it in my driveway and read the code p1326. Note: new engine hasn’t burned any/minimal oil, still full on dipstick. Called the warranty people, they paid for my tow back to Hyundai who said they will get to it ASAP. They have been fairly good as a dealership so not trash talking them. Service advisor (same as last time) said they think the sensor is just faulty as it has a new engine already.
So has anyone dealt with anything similar?
Thanks!
submitted by Disastrous-Truck1577 to HyundaiSantaFe [link] [comments]
Background: I’m second owner have maintained this car to the T since purchase at 33k. At 86k mi the car lost power on the highway I was able to just coast off and exit had it towed to my mechanic who said take it to Hyundai. This car did burn oil a little under 1 quart every 1k which from what I’ve read and heard isn’t enough to get them to do anything. Hyundai said it was an injector it was not. There was no compression in cyl 3. Eventually they discovered a burnt valve which requires replacing the engine. Which was done under my extended warranty. I did some other stuff while they were in there like spark plugs the other injectors just to be safe and know my car will get me where I need to go.
It’s been 1800 miles since, then I went through a car wash, less than a mile later the check engine light is blinking. Luckily I was on my street, I put it in my driveway and read the code p1326. Note: new engine hasn’t burned any/minimal oil, still full on dipstick. Called the warranty people, they paid for my tow back to Hyundai who said they will get to it ASAP. They have been fairly good as a dealership so not trash talking them. Service advisor (same as last time) said they think the sensor is just faulty as it has a new engine already.
So has anyone dealt with anything similar?
Thanks!
2023.06.04 14:01 EddieMcClintock Catastrophic spark plug failure, 2 questions
 | Spark plug failure while cruising on interstate. 2015 Volvo V60 w110k. Only code is Cylinder 1 misfire. Metal coils were found at bottom of spark plug channel. More details below - submitted by EddieMcClintock to AskMechanics [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 13:05 anonymoususer7501 How difficult is it to do change brake fluid on BMW M235i?
I’ve worked on my car a bit, replaced brake pads on all 4 wheels, changed spark plugs, etc. however now it’s time to service the brake fluid. Is the process pretty easy DIY or better to just give to a mechanic? I’ve never done a brake fluid flush so wondering the level of difficulty here.
submitted by anonymoususer7501 to BmwTech [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 12:33 FanOfSkynyrd P0300, P0302, P0306 Misfire codes
Hello. I've got a 2017 Ford Edge with the 3.5L V6 and just under 80k miles on the odometer.
It was just at the dealership to replace the rear main seal which was leaking (under warranty).
Here's the background on my issue (apologies in advance for the long post):
A few days after picking it up from the shop after the rear main seal R&R, my son was driving it. He said the CEL came on so he pulled over but the CEL went away and never came back. He said the car drove fine and didnt seem to act up or anything the rest of the day. I scanned for codes when I got home from work and got nothing, no codes stored.
Fast forward 2 weeks, he says the CEL came on as he was pulling into our neighborhood.
I go out and check, sure enough CEL on (solid, not flashing), I pull the codes: P0300, P0302, and P0306 misfire codes.
The car is going on 7+ years old now with just under 80k on the clock, so I figure probably a good idea to replace the spark plugs anyways. I also decided to throw in new coils as a "while I'm in there" since I opted to do the job myself.
I also replaced the intake plenum gasket since I had to pull the intake off to reach cylinders 1-3.
Everything went smoothly. I fired her up, things sounds normal, idles perfect, so I clear the codes and we go out for a test drive and everything still feels and sounds great. That is until I floor it.
Once engine gets to about 5-6krpm, CEL comes on and is flashing. I immediately pull over, and I can feel it sputtering and it feels sluggish.
I pull the codes, same ones as before but this time they are pending. CEL goes away after maybe 20 seconds.
I drive it around some more, and everything feels fine under "normal" acceleration...no sputtering, shaking, nothing. But every time, under hard acceleration, the CEL comes on flashing, then goes away after about 10-15 seconds.
I'm dropping it off at the dealership on Monday (I know my mechanical limits).
I think the odds are too slim for the new plugs/coils to be bad on the exact same cylinders as before.
I'm curious as to what others think could be the issue.
Fuel injectors possible? Google searching has also indicated a bad ECM.
submitted by FanOfSkynyrd to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
It was just at the dealership to replace the rear main seal which was leaking (under warranty).
Here's the background on my issue (apologies in advance for the long post):
A few days after picking it up from the shop after the rear main seal R&R, my son was driving it. He said the CEL came on so he pulled over but the CEL went away and never came back. He said the car drove fine and didnt seem to act up or anything the rest of the day. I scanned for codes when I got home from work and got nothing, no codes stored.
Fast forward 2 weeks, he says the CEL came on as he was pulling into our neighborhood.
I go out and check, sure enough CEL on (solid, not flashing), I pull the codes: P0300, P0302, and P0306 misfire codes.
The car is going on 7+ years old now with just under 80k on the clock, so I figure probably a good idea to replace the spark plugs anyways. I also decided to throw in new coils as a "while I'm in there" since I opted to do the job myself.
I also replaced the intake plenum gasket since I had to pull the intake off to reach cylinders 1-3.
Everything went smoothly. I fired her up, things sounds normal, idles perfect, so I clear the codes and we go out for a test drive and everything still feels and sounds great. That is until I floor it.
Once engine gets to about 5-6krpm, CEL comes on and is flashing. I immediately pull over, and I can feel it sputtering and it feels sluggish.
I pull the codes, same ones as before but this time they are pending. CEL goes away after maybe 20 seconds.
I drive it around some more, and everything feels fine under "normal" acceleration...no sputtering, shaking, nothing. But every time, under hard acceleration, the CEL comes on flashing, then goes away after about 10-15 seconds.
I'm dropping it off at the dealership on Monday (I know my mechanical limits).
I think the odds are too slim for the new plugs/coils to be bad on the exact same cylinders as before.
I'm curious as to what others think could be the issue.
Fuel injectors possible? Google searching has also indicated a bad ECM.
2023.06.04 12:03 Tall-Green9729 I need help whit my scooter
 | Hello i once again searching for help whit my scooter i already post this but here is an update please help if you can,like i said we tried 3x carburetors 2x 17.5mm 1x21mm we changed alot of spark plugs i changed cdi,we cleand the magnet ,i changed ignition coil,i have 70cc airsal kit 1 piston ring kit is new even previous kit wasn't running right ,i tried different filters , please help ,and thand for any help submitted by Tall-Green9729 to scooters [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 11:45 EnvironmentalBass374 Opinion on the husky 338xpt
Also does anyone have the spark plug/cylinder head cover for one of these inside AUS.
submitted by EnvironmentalBass374 to Chainsaw [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 11:38 AndreasPlugPower New Facebook group
Retail investors with a sense of humor and wit are free to express themselves, raise their own opinions and feelings, address concerns, make price predictions, and even post gifs (I will allow it if it sparks a tingling sensation in my groin). The content we share will be high and low and everything in between, much like the chart of the company we believe in and have come to love, Plug Power. Facts are great, but speculation is also a big part of the game.
Here's to the maniacs, visionaries, and wide-eyed dreamers. We’re going to the moon, baby!
"All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never become boring."
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2741711372634043/?ref=share_group_link
submitted by AndreasPlugPower to plugpowerstock [link] [comments]
Here's to the maniacs, visionaries, and wide-eyed dreamers. We’re going to the moon, baby!
"All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never become boring."
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2741711372634043/?ref=share_group_link
2023.06.04 09:25 Steve44444444 NC 1.8 Spark Plugs?
Looking to do a spark plug change on my 2008 NC (it has the 1.8 liter engine). I looked in the manual and it said „L303-18-110“ as the correct part number, however the parts store said they „can't find anything with that number“. I then described the car, engine and plug, after which the employee ordered them. When I wanted to pick them up the next day, I saw that they were very similar (NGK 7164), but still the wrong ones, so I returned them. I did some research and found out that the „L303-18-110“ corresponds to the NGK 90813, anyone able to tell me if that's correct? Just don't want to order the wrong ones again and embarrass myself… Thanks!
submitted by Steve44444444 to MiataNC [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 09:16 nickaa827 What is that part that is leaking oil? Also how do these spark plugs look? 🤔
 | 2004 Honda Odyssey 3.5. 200,000 miles. Unknown when spark plugs were last changed. No blue smoke but van uses a lot of oil. We change the oil on time, we have owned it since new. It is my mom's van and she drives it easy on the highway to work and back. It doesn't drop any oil on the driveway. submitted by nickaa827 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 08:26 dizzy809 Making rumbling and clashing at 60
 | I just got this 1989 jeep cherokee and tryin to get it safe for the road ive gone through a few service thing like spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor an router, air filter, i am getting ready to do a service on the rear differential, but the only issue i am having with it is when i am at 60 a rumble starts to take place near the rear of the vehicle and as i let go of the accelerator it starts to eas off tell i push it in again an it makes a clashing sound, what could i be lookin at replacing or repairing? submitted by dizzy809 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 07:54 Personal_Kangaroo_24 2008 Chevy Equinox Service Stabilitrak & Traction Control & ABS Anti-Lock Light Indicator question
 | Recently bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap from a family member due to all the issues it has. submitted by Personal_Kangaroo_24 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] As the car started, the following indication lights stayed on and these messages would cycle on the dash: • ABS LIGHT • ([Brake]) LIGHT • Check Tire Pressure LIGHT (car was neglected for 1+ year(s)) • "Service Stabilitrak" • "Traction Control Off" • "All Wheel Drive Off" While driving the vehicle, these messages kept cycling through at varying speeds. Given all these messages I performed an OBD scan, and received the following report (No codes were reset)***: (Report dated: May 28) From a bit of research I concluded that the a combination of the following actions could be performed to resolve these issues: • Replace the Steering wheel position/angle sensor. • Followed up by an alignment since the steering wheel is at an angle when driving it straight • Replace the wheel hub and bearing bearing in case the magnetic ring is cracked or broken. • The car makes a growling noise that worsens with an increase in speed. Given the amount of miles the car has, it probably needs a new set of wheel bearings. • Replace the Wheel speed sensor(s) • It's only $12/piece • Fill up the Brake Fluid When we usually have a car problem, I brute force it and replace all the components, but an attempy has been made to narrow the problem down before pulling the trigger and spending money on all these parts. In an attempt to narrow down the problems, I maxed out the brake fluid and checked the speed sensor in question. After disconnecting the speed sensor, a visible inspection of the harness and connector was performed to rule out oxidation or other visible damage. After reconnecting the speed sensor, all of the indication lights ceased to appear. Confused and skeptic to believe that all of these issues were resolved, I performed another OBD Scan and received the following report: (Report Dated: May 29) This was strange as all the indication lights and messages were no longer showing up. Also, bear in mind***, that I did not reset the codes. Shooting-the-shit with a friend, they proposed that I drove the car for a while to see if the codes would disappear (very optimistic approach, I know), or the Indicator lights would reappear. After filling up the tank and driving the vehicle throught varying conditions (25 mph, 35 mph, and 65mph zones) across 40 miles. The "service stabilitrak" light came back on. With the light coming back on, I did another OBD Scan, yet again, here is that latest report: (Report Dated: June 3) Now, I am stumped, what I know for certain is that it needs new wheel bearings because of that growling noise it makes at high speeds, it seems that the steering wheel position sensor needs to be replaced, but now I get a recommendation to replace the EBCM and the wheel speed sensor stop showing up. Any advice on how to move forward? Has anybody experienced or seen this before in a 2005-2009 Chevy Equinox (1st Gen)? If so, what took care of these problems? tl;dr: Bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap, dash looked like a Christmas tree display, performed OBD to narrow down issue. Christmas display turned off disconnecting and reconnecting a sensor (no codes were reset). Performed another OBD, different code(s) showed up. Drove car, one light came back. Performed a third OBD scan, 1 code disappeared with a recommended solution from auto repair store. Don't know what to believe. Please, help. |
2023.06.04 07:12 Tin_can69 Cadillac cts v sport 2015 (97k miles) weird noise coming from engine bay
 | I just changed the spark plugs two days later this noise appears. Plz help should I take in to a mechanic ? What could it be submitted by Tin_can69 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] |
2023.06.04 07:12 Commercial_Passion46 I have a 2016 R6 with about 30k miles or so on it. Noticed it was burning oil.
I did a oil change last summer about 2.5/3k miles or so ago. I have a tuned R6 with headers and exhaust, K&N intake, bauce racing tune and just did the spark plugs last summer. Any advice as to why it would burn oil would help. I do ride it fast and fairly hard .. as I do ride a fair amount of highway
submitted by Commercial_Passion46 to motorcycles [link] [comments]
2023.06.04 06:26 Technical-Delay-1730 Ktm 690 duke
Hi everyone, I have recently purchased a 2014 ktm 690 duke with 25000 km. I'm new to ktm and know they make a lot of noise but I feel like there is a tapping noise coming from the engine. I recently changed a rocker arm as the bearing was on its way out and adjusted the value. I installed manual cam chain tensioner and it's adjusted. Changed spark plugs and air filter and new oil and filter(10w50). I'll link the video here. Please let me know if you hear anything abnormal. As I said I'm new to ktm and Don't know if the sound its making is normal. I'm a bit paranoid at the moment lol.
https://youtube.com/shorts/-0-JXwu1HIE?feature=share
submitted by Technical-Delay-1730 to KTMDuke [link] [comments]
https://youtube.com/shorts/-0-JXwu1HIE?feature=share
2023.06.04 06:12 CaffienatedBLANK Not starting (next steps)
 | Honda XL100s, 1983 submitted by CaffienatedBLANK to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments] It ran last riding season, with some minor starting issues. there were electrical issues that were fixed mostly with a new battery. this season i tried kick starting for about a half hour, finally managed to get it but then it was idling too low and died on me quite a few times. put it away for the day. bout a week later, come back, starts up immediately, dies to same low idle problem. and then does not start again. battery has good voltage, we’re getting a spark, the plug isn’t wet, tried in all choke positions, put fresh fuel in, even tried a push start. nothing. not even a sputter. what are my next steps? i am not at all mechanically minded, but willing to learn and futz. i’ve heard maybe cleaning the carb could be a good way to go?? |
2023.06.04 06:10 snakesphysically Should I buy from a private seller who does his own servicing?
Hi all, post title says it all.
More context: After he bought his 2015 Scion xB from the first owner in 2019, he's done all the servicing himself. CARFAX has nothing. Says he changed the oil every 5000km (Hi from Canada!) Just today, he sent me a photo of him replacing the brake pads and rotors.
Is this fine? Either way, I will definitely take it for a PPI and that will probably be the deciding factor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much.
Below is his post:
2015 scion xb for sale. Has 103000km on it and slowly going up. Oil changes every 5000km. Recently Spark plugs, coolant, transmission fluid just replaced at around 100000km. Brand new tires just put on less than 1000km ago. Front and rear brake pads and rotors just replaced Previous owner does have a rear end claim on it for around $2400 Price is firm at $14000"
submitted by snakesphysically to UsedCars [link] [comments]
More context: After he bought his 2015 Scion xB from the first owner in 2019, he's done all the servicing himself. CARFAX has nothing. Says he changed the oil every 5000km (Hi from Canada!) Just today, he sent me a photo of him replacing the brake pads and rotors.
Is this fine? Either way, I will definitely take it for a PPI and that will probably be the deciding factor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much.
Below is his post:
2015 scion xb for sale. Has 103000km on it and slowly going up. Oil changes every 5000km. Recently Spark plugs, coolant, transmission fluid just replaced at around 100000km. Brand new tires just put on less than 1000km ago. Front and rear brake pads and rotors just replaced Previous owner does have a rear end claim on it for around $2400 Price is firm at $14000"
2023.06.04 05:56 mechanicmaker Starting issues with ‘13 Dodge Dart 2.0 Project Car
Hi I bought a project 2013 Dodge Dart 2.0 for $500 to learn more about cars but I’m having a hard time getting it started. It turns over and sounds like it wants to start. Starter sounds good. I know the timing chain was replaced at some point but don’t much about the vehicle history beyond that. List of things I’ve tried so far:
What could cause these codes at the same time? The cover for the engine is currently disconnected.The throttle body sensoconnector is also broken/wiggles and is held together by a zip tie (pic attached). Would I need to replace the entire throttle body for this? What are the next steps here? I NEED to put this together any help is greatly appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/6C0xG01
submitted by mechanicmaker to dodgedart [link] [comments]
- putting starting fluid into the intake and trying to start it
- replaced the crankshaft sensor and the exhaust camshaft sensor (still need to replace intake camshaft sensor)
- recharged battery and tested good
- spark plugs look good and compression test is good
- timing chain looks like it’s on there tight, no metal shavings or debris
What could cause these codes at the same time? The cover for the engine is currently disconnected.The throttle body sensoconnector is also broken/wiggles and is held together by a zip tie (pic attached). Would I need to replace the entire throttle body for this? What are the next steps here? I NEED to put this together any help is greatly appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/6C0xG01
2023.06.04 05:23 Cultural-Balance6188 Check engine light on and off still
Check engine light on and off
2008 hyundai tiburon gt 2.7 shoots codes p0268 p0303 and misfires when it throws these codes, I changed the injectors and spark plugs and I still get this issue. This happens on and off. Any advice? It’s at 98000 miles also changed spark plug wires and coil pack
submitted by Cultural-Balance6188 to Tiburon [link] [comments]
2008 hyundai tiburon gt 2.7 shoots codes p0268 p0303 and misfires when it throws these codes, I changed the injectors and spark plugs and I still get this issue. This happens on and off. Any advice? It’s at 98000 miles also changed spark plug wires and coil pack
2023.06.04 05:10 hatch_life 462 Mtronic spark test
ms 462-c, can i check for spark by grounding the plug on the cylinder? gapped the coil with a business card, seems to be getting fuel (plug has fuel on it when i take it out after trying to start) starter cord compression test is good.
is there any info for checking solenoid, killswitch circuits?
submitted by hatch_life to stihl [link] [comments]
is there any info for checking solenoid, killswitch circuits?
2023.06.04 04:53 risk71 Prius gurus? Wannabe mech stumped
2010 Prius. Very rough idle. Codes P0016 P0340 P0403 P3190 Back story: Car was running fine, then, one day it started running like it was missing terribly, warning light, check engine, etc.
It ran similar to this event before and we figured out it was the egr cooler fully plugged, and EGR valve.These were replaced. Car ran fine for a while.
Then we had a head gasket issue. We replaced the head gasket. Car ran fine for a while.
Brings us to current event. Driving fine then terrible running, shaking, dash lights up, won't run. This was six months ago. It has sat since then. At the time, the codes were related to the timing/crank and cam sensors being out of sync.
I assumed that the chain, which had never been replaced as far as we know (bought used about 50k ago) either was stretched, the tensioner was bad or possibly slipped a tooth etc.
So, this past week I did the timing chain. New Toyota OEM chain, guides, tensioner, timing sprockets, oil sprockets, oil pump chain. The works.
When disassembling the crank timing oil chain sprocket was found broken right at the keyway. The chain was essentially holding it in place. One the chain was removed it just fell.off The crank sensor timing plate behind it, they keyway was all hammered and the timing sensor plate was sloppy on the crank because the keyway was hammered. This is something I have never seen, granted I've only done about a dozen timing belts and chains in the last 30 years, so I have very limited experience.
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor plate from Toyota. I had the new sprocket already. I assembled everything. Ensuring that the cams and crank were timed correctly, then before putting the covers back on permanently, I spun it by hand and ensured that the crank pulley/dampener and timing marks on the cam sprockets all lined up as they were supposed to. All looked great, so I put it all back together.
Car batteries were dead. Of course from sitting so long. Put a jump pack on it and then turned the car on.
It started. Ran and purred like a kitten for about 10 seconds then started running like it was missing terribly. Shaking etc.
I put it in neutral and it idled fine. Wouldn't increase RPM because the check engine lights and etc all can back on, but it idled in neutral great! Put it in drive with foot on the brake and it started the violent sharing and stumbling, back to neutral, and it idled fine. Back to park and it started shaking and stumbling again.
Shut it off. Cleared the codes.
Started it again. Same behavior as before. Starts. And runs like great for about 10 seconds, then suddenly it doesn't't know what time it is... in neutral, purrs like it's supposed to, into park and shakes and misses like before.
Initially when I saw the broken sprocket and sloppy crank sensor plate, I thought that may have been the reason this all started. The crank sensor couldn't consistently pick up the timing and confused everything else. Now Part of me thinks that this violent shaking and stumbling may have been what broke the sprocket and allowed the key way for the sensor to get sloppy.
So here I am. With the codes above showing.
Could the ECM be bad? What else could be the issue? The oil drained had no coolant. The coolant had no oil.
I need help for further diagnosis.. I am pretty handy.. I know enough to get my self in trouble.. as you can see.
Is there something I can do without tearing down the timing chain cover again?
Edited .. added the below info. I have found that the 12v battery will not hold a charge so I think it was only starting under the power of the jump pack and not the battery. Once the 60 seconds of "start engine" power from the jump pack, times out. The motor dies. Of course in neutral the traction battery does not charge and I can't keep it running in park because of the violent shaking. Could it be just really weak spark? Would the spark voltage required change from park to neutral? It seems so odd that neutral seems to run fine but park/drive no Bueno..
submitted by risk71 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
It ran similar to this event before and we figured out it was the egr cooler fully plugged, and EGR valve.These were replaced. Car ran fine for a while.
Then we had a head gasket issue. We replaced the head gasket. Car ran fine for a while.
Brings us to current event. Driving fine then terrible running, shaking, dash lights up, won't run. This was six months ago. It has sat since then. At the time, the codes were related to the timing/crank and cam sensors being out of sync.
I assumed that the chain, which had never been replaced as far as we know (bought used about 50k ago) either was stretched, the tensioner was bad or possibly slipped a tooth etc.
So, this past week I did the timing chain. New Toyota OEM chain, guides, tensioner, timing sprockets, oil sprockets, oil pump chain. The works.
When disassembling the crank timing oil chain sprocket was found broken right at the keyway. The chain was essentially holding it in place. One the chain was removed it just fell.off The crank sensor timing plate behind it, they keyway was all hammered and the timing sensor plate was sloppy on the crank because the keyway was hammered. This is something I have never seen, granted I've only done about a dozen timing belts and chains in the last 30 years, so I have very limited experience.
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor plate from Toyota. I had the new sprocket already. I assembled everything. Ensuring that the cams and crank were timed correctly, then before putting the covers back on permanently, I spun it by hand and ensured that the crank pulley/dampener and timing marks on the cam sprockets all lined up as they were supposed to. All looked great, so I put it all back together.
Car batteries were dead. Of course from sitting so long. Put a jump pack on it and then turned the car on.
It started. Ran and purred like a kitten for about 10 seconds then started running like it was missing terribly. Shaking etc.
I put it in neutral and it idled fine. Wouldn't increase RPM because the check engine lights and etc all can back on, but it idled in neutral great! Put it in drive with foot on the brake and it started the violent sharing and stumbling, back to neutral, and it idled fine. Back to park and it started shaking and stumbling again.
Shut it off. Cleared the codes.
Started it again. Same behavior as before. Starts. And runs like great for about 10 seconds, then suddenly it doesn't't know what time it is... in neutral, purrs like it's supposed to, into park and shakes and misses like before.
Initially when I saw the broken sprocket and sloppy crank sensor plate, I thought that may have been the reason this all started. The crank sensor couldn't consistently pick up the timing and confused everything else. Now Part of me thinks that this violent shaking and stumbling may have been what broke the sprocket and allowed the key way for the sensor to get sloppy.
So here I am. With the codes above showing.
Could the ECM be bad? What else could be the issue? The oil drained had no coolant. The coolant had no oil.
I need help for further diagnosis.. I am pretty handy.. I know enough to get my self in trouble.. as you can see.
Is there something I can do without tearing down the timing chain cover again?
Edited .. added the below info. I have found that the 12v battery will not hold a charge so I think it was only starting under the power of the jump pack and not the battery. Once the 60 seconds of "start engine" power from the jump pack, times out. The motor dies. Of course in neutral the traction battery does not charge and I can't keep it running in park because of the violent shaking. Could it be just really weak spark? Would the spark voltage required change from park to neutral? It seems so odd that neutral seems to run fine but park/drive no Bueno..