Samsung wf42h5200af/a2 drain pump
Projection for Protection
2017.08.30 04:28 CommanderXXX Projection for Protection
This subreddit is a place where people can share ideas of what they feel needs to be changed, or explored using the ability of astral projection. This involves healing others, astral warfare, astral investigation, creating things within the astrals, or anything else you can put your mind to. Any task or idea will be put in the missions board. Please share your results.
2011.06.21 03:00 HardwareSwap
Do you want to trade your unused computer part for something you will use? Welcome to Hardwareswap, a community and marketplace for buying, selling, and trading all sorts of PC Hardware. It is very important than you read the wiki located in the sidebar for safe trading procedures.Reading our rules and guides is the best and most proven way to prevent getting scammed!
2010.09.18 08:10 verugan Texans
Home of the Houston Texans, an American Football team located in Houston, TX
2023.03.22 05:53 InVaLiD_EDM New to the club!
 | Just bought a neglected '85 Corvette as a project car, and there's a lot of emphasis on 'project'. submitted by InVaLiD_EDM to Corvette [link] [comments] I'm the second owner of this car, and the original owner just didn't have the time or money it deserved. The body work is still in great shape, aside from the usual weather stripping, which as far as I know is original. The interior is uhm- Let's put it this way: anything that's not the seat covers is no man's land. The pictures don't really do it justice on how filthy it is, but I plan to get a black carpeting set so the filthy carpet will stay for now, I plan on detailing, sanitizing, and exorcising the interior when the new carpet gets put in. As of right now, it doesn't run because the fuel pump is dead. The fuel tank needs replaced as well, when I was draining the old gas I got more water and rust than I did actual fuel. I've got a new tank and fuel pump assembly ordered, so it's just a matter of when those arrive. I also ordered a new fuel filter as the one that's connected seems to be the original one. I've wanted a C4 Corvette for as long as I can remember, and they've always been a dream car of mine. Probably due to the fact that my dad had hung a poster of one in my room when I was little. I'm really happy to see it in my driveway, and it's made for a fun project in the short time I've had it. Can't wait to see it back on the road again! |
2023.03.22 05:44 Blitzdroids [Task Share] HBM
HIGH BRIGHTNESS MODE will Force display brightness to highest possible setting. This will make your display brightness go beyond the controllable brightness level normally reserved for viewing in direct sunlight when auto brightness is on. Also includes quick tile configuration for easy toggling and notification.
Leaving this mode ON for too long will result in heavy battery drain, hot device, and could cause screen damage. Use only when necessary!
No Plugins Required! Built and tested using Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra. Should work on any device running android. Root is NOT required.
TaskerNet Import
submitted by Blitzdroids to tasker [link] [comments]
Leaving this mode ON for too long will result in heavy battery drain, hot device, and could cause screen damage. Use only when necessary!
No Plugins Required! Built and tested using Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra. Should work on any device running android. Root is NOT required.
TaskerNet Import
2023.03.22 05:01 AlexBellPhone Repaint a Pool with Me
 | Heyya! submitted by AlexBellPhone to swimmingpools [link] [comments] I wanted to share my experience with you guys and show you how I repaint my pool. Now, let's get this out of the way first: this is probably not the best approach, nor the easiest, nor a long lasting one, yadda yadda. BUT, this is a 500$ method that will do the job for a few years. By the way, I have not finished this yet so will keep posting as I complete the project :) Here is what I am dealing with. - Pool built in 1995 - Spa has 4 jets that are primary return; this then overfills and flows into the pool - Pool has 14 Caretaker pop-ups that don't work well - Main drain (double entry), skimmer and spa drain (double entry) - Currently running a 3HP Pentair IntelliFlo® VSF Variable speed pump - The current paint is chlorinated rubber (on top of plaster) https://preview.redd.it/l7ajbdknc7pa1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=213b5b35ca7378b5168c0e7204bb9e5f731ab8dd The main reasons why I wanted to repaint: - Dog scratched up all the stairs and anywhere he can hang out (shallow end walls) - The spa paint chipped out (I assume due to previously bad paint job + heat) https://preview.redd.it/2gesmrobf7pa1.jpg?width=5376&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9845518156d85ed98ff01235b9d9ca13f2a78c00 Step 0 - Pick your paint If you wanna paint, you need some paint. Duh! There are three types of commonly used paints: epoxy, acrylic and rubber. I am using Smart Seal paints and they have a nice guide of why choose one paint over another. Here is what I understood from my research that can hopefully help you: - If your pool is painted, you typically MUST repaint it with the same type of paint - For Rubber, the above is true exceptfor the conversion that they offer (see below). Not sure how well that works... my pool guy friend told me he has never done that. - The longest lasting one seems to be epoxy followed by rubber then acrylic. I was suggested to use acrylic on an unknown previous paint... shrug. - Calculate about how much paint you'll need... I guesstimated and mine took 2gallons per coat. Do what you want with that information hah https://preview.redd.it/y5u4w30mp7pa1.jpg?width=2155&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=516448cae62db39c77dc13a03df30ec374610c76 Step 1 - Empty the pool - I bought a 50$ submersible water pump. I got a 1HP 3700GPH off Amazon (Prostormer) - I attached my regular (cleaning) vacuum hose to it (with some electrical tape around the hose male part to assure it goes IN the pumps' female connector really tightly) https://preview.redd.it/3sy3wdnme7pa1.jpg?width=1108&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba71ea86e8c9bb47a8d20812d3fae391a520924b Step 2 - Remove all pop-ups, covers and lights - Unscrew the covers for the main drain and the spa drain - Remove pop-ups using a caretaker pop up tool (this one was about 75$ from ePool Supply) This one was pricy. I suggest asking a neighbor or a pool guy to borrow it. It takes 10seconds to use per po-up... So spending 75$ for 5min of work might not be worth it. - To remove the light covers, I used two small screw drivers and one larger one. Insert the small ones in the holes and then use the big one to rotate the two smaller ones counter clockwise. (Not sure that made sense but I saw someone doing it on another type of light: https://youtu.be/SnzwC8a9NVM?t=78 https://preview.redd.it/yaclm1svg7pa1.jpg?width=6344&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb563c38a5efac3257a634bf5836d38fc58e246a Step 3 - fix the lights (nice lil bonus) When I removed the lights, I realized they were actually fiber optic bundles. Flashback to when I bought the house, I was told the lights don't work. All I knew is there was a box with "stuff" in it that controlled the lights... and it wasn't working. So I never thought anything of it. So! I went and opened up the box with "stuff", and saw that it was quite a simple design actually. 110V power comes in - transformer steps it down for the light (19.7V halogen HI-111 lightbulb) and a small motor that moves a tiny color wheel. Then a fan that runs on 110V that cools the whole thing. That's the basics of it. The system I have is Firberstars; model is so old that I have no idea what it is. Fiberstars since then has been renamed to SRSmith, FYI. Spare parts can be found here, here or here. I bought the bulb (HI110/HI111) from eBay for ~20$. A set of o-rings from Harbor Freight was 5$. (You need two for each light cover). The fan worked (thankfully) as most places sell it for an obscene amount (250$!!) but if you look into it, it is a PAPST 8500N type. You can find OEM for ~38$ here or 41$ here plus 52$ here. https://preview.redd.it/pbka78aml7pa1.jpg?width=6232&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8227daabb01d032c5091437d3d5b6a6d48c91189 Step 4 - Start scrubbing... everything, everywhere, all the time An important step BEFORE you start any kind of painting activities is to prepare the surface! I will not go into all details as each surface has slightly different requirements. Start with a solid pressure wash. Overall, you want to scrape any old paint and bumps off from existing surface. For me, since I am working with a previously painter with rubber surface, I used a set of metal scrapes and putty knives to get any major paint chips off and try to loosen any other pieces that might be easy to remove. This takes FOREVER. Especially in the spa as things seemed to "peel" off easily, which to me means I need to remove it (see pic). If you paint over a loose previous layer, your new layer will not hold. That much I know hah I then repeated this process through the whole pool. Yeah, took me two weeks after work and a painful shoulder... but hey, no pain no gain? As you can see around the pool, there are less areas that required heavy removal. Most paint in the pool seemed to hold really well. Nonetheless, I did make sure every single inch of the pool was scraped with a putty knife/scraping tool. I then used a pressure washer again to see if anything else comes off, and to clean up. Finally, I used a 40 grid sandpaper on an orbital sander and went around everything to smooth out final bumps that I might have missed. This one was much faster. https://preview.redd.it/89xululxm7pa1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=280d2795c7ec8b20cd121c211e06069571ad835a Step 5 - Perform any repairs now Since things are dry and easier to access now, it's a good time to look for any fixes you might need to make. Small cracks, irregular surfaces, area around the drains or skimmer... take a look and see if anything looks off. I applied some silicone around the inside of the skimmer as it looked a little worn. An ounce of prevention and all. Step 6 - Pressure wash again Again, before doing anything else, make sure you are starting with a clean, dust free (as much as possible) surface. ///// I am currently here ... it's been raining last few days so couldn't do much \\\\\ Step 7 - Wash with TSP > Muriatic Acid > TSP Note: this is what my paint manufacturer suggested I do, so I am following their recommendation. Please follow the one you pick. Also, please wear protection anytime you are handling any kind of chemical, mkaayy? thanks! Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) is used before paint. The compound prepares pool (and deck) surfaces for painting by removing dirt, grease and oils. I got mine from Home Depot for 7$ and a sponge from the dollar store for 99c. Use a 5 gallon bucket and dilute based on TSP instructions. Use a sponge and wash all the pool surfaces thoroughly. Rinse it all off. Now you have to acid wash the whole shabang. My paint recommends 10% solution of muriatic acid in water. Spray the mix with a multipurpose garden sprayer (bought off harbor freight for 8$). Rinse with water immediately and then repeat the TSP wash to neutralize the acid. Then allow surface to dry completely. So ... TSP > Wash > Muriatic > Wash > TSP > Wash > Dry Step 8 - Pre-paint the bare spots My paint recommends that on a painted surface, the bare spots (like the ones I have in my spa and some spots in the pool) be painted with a 10-20% diluted paint solution. I will then wait for 4-6 hours, and proceed. Step 9 - First coat After spot priming, I will apply one full strength coat of the paint using a 9" premium roller from Home Depot (got a pack of 2 with the base for 16$). I will wait again 4-6 hours (or longer, depends when I paint it) . Step 10 - Second coat Once first coat is done, I will check for any irregularities and use an 800 grit sandpaper to fix anything that is sticking out too much. Then, I will use the 9" rollers and apply a second coat at full strength. Step 11 - Fill & Enjoy Will let you know how that goes :) |
2023.03.22 04:43 AJ-Taylor HVAC has been dumping gallons of water into passive radon vent pipe
We had the HVAC system replaced over a year ago and the condenser pump has been draining into the passive radon vent pipe. I think the installers may have mistaken it for the sewer pipe, and I didn't know any better either. I'm not sure how much water is getting dumped in there, but google suggests the average AC system could produce 20 gallons a day. What kind of damage would that do? We're currently having issues with high radon levels, could this be causing it? We had the house radon tested when we bought the place three years ago and it was just below the safe level. We just bought an electronic radon monitor and it's now 5x the safe level.
The finished half of the basement is on a slab and the unfinished crawl space just has a gravel floor. The way the pipe is set up, the water should be ending up beneath the gravel since the fork where the piece from the slab connects is up a foot or so.
Thanks!
submitted by AJ-Taylor to radon [link] [comments]
The finished half of the basement is on a slab and the unfinished crawl space just has a gravel floor. The way the pipe is set up, the water should be ending up beneath the gravel since the fork where the piece from the slab connects is up a foot or so.
Thanks!
2023.03.22 04:23 Next-Advice9252 I successfully weaned. What a journey.
Baby boy is 5 months now. I initially wanted to make it to 6 months, but after getting COVID and feeling completely drained, I decided to wean earlier than anticipated. I'm really proud of myself for doing it as long as I did. It is hard work and we should all be very proud for doing this for our little ones. My baby's pediatrician was impressed with his growth and stated that he was "very well nourished" and I thought to myself, "I did that." I can say I'm so happy that I made it this far and just as happy to be done. Here's to less time being hooked to the pump, and more time living my life.
submitted by Next-Advice9252 to ExclusivelyPumping [link] [comments]
2023.03.22 03:36 Smoogbragu Washer Hose Too Short
Recently replaced my Samsung top loading washer with a new Whirlpool Front Loader (wife is thrilled, more excited than diamond earrings , thinking boys I might be getting lucky tonight!!)
Problem is that the OEM drain hose that shipped with the Whirlpool washer is 5'6" and I need 6' . Can I trim the washers drain pipe by 4" to make it work or do I need the drain pipe to be a certain length for some reason?
submitted by Smoogbragu to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
Problem is that the OEM drain hose that shipped with the Whirlpool washer is 5'6" and I need 6' . Can I trim the washers drain pipe by 4" to make it work or do I need the drain pipe to be a certain length for some reason?
2023.03.22 03:31 Smoogbragu Washer Hose too Short!
Recently replaced my Samsung top loading washer with a new Whirlpool Front Loader (wife is thrilled, more excited than diamond earrings , thinking boys I might be getting lucky tonight!!)
Problem is that the OEM drain hose that shipped with the Whirlpool washer is 5'6" and I need 6' . Can I trim the washers drain pipe by 4" to make it work or do I need the drain pipe to be a certain length for some reason?
submitted by Smoogbragu to Appliances [link] [comments]
Problem is that the OEM drain hose that shipped with the Whirlpool washer is 5'6" and I need 6' . Can I trim the washers drain pipe by 4" to make it work or do I need the drain pipe to be a certain length for some reason?
2023.03.22 03:25 nagadait Water in the crawl space
Hey everybody, I’ve got a home with a crawl space. When it rains, the front side of the crawl space, near a downspout, gets wet. There’s probably about a few (2-3ft circumference) puddles of water all about 1” deep. The entire portion probably covers about 8-10ft of the crawl space of a home that’s about 1800 sqft. I’ve done everything from install a French drain, to a sump pump, to even getting under there with towels! I’ve owned the home about 3 years and have been dealing with this for about 2. No leaks! Had 5-7 plumbers and myself crawling all over the place to verify. Any ideas on how big of an issue this is? 60s home. About to lose my mind dealing with it! Aside from dropping major money on re-grading the lot, or full encapsulation, any ideas? Or should I even be concerned?
submitted by nagadait to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
2023.03.22 00:35 nfy12 Is a sump pump alone enough?
Just moved into a new (old) house. Our area is close to a river and there’s a lot of groundwater so keeping water out of the basement is a primary concern of everyone around here. Many people have French drains but we only have a sump pump. The sump pump turns on pretty frequently, like every 30 minutes or so. There is not any visible water getting into the basement except for a few tiny pinhole leaks in the poured concrete foundation after intense rains.
What I’m wondering is if this is enough to protect the foundation and I should conclude based on the basement staying pretty dry that a French drain is unnecessary? Should I be concerned about other effects from groundwater in the soil? Grading around the house is not perfect but neighbors have told me that surface water from rain is really not the concern but rather the water from below.
Thanks for any insights.
submitted by nfy12 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
What I’m wondering is if this is enough to protect the foundation and I should conclude based on the basement staying pretty dry that a French drain is unnecessary? Should I be concerned about other effects from groundwater in the soil? Grading around the house is not perfect but neighbors have told me that surface water from rain is really not the concern but rather the water from below.
Thanks for any insights.
2023.03.21 23:26 askingforfriendxyz Need help with parts for Well Water Pressure Tank
Hi,
I recently bought some land that already had some utilities such as electric, septic, and a well. I'm going to park an RV there for recreational use. Turns out though, the builder told me I need to make sure there is enough water pressure going into the RV, which will likely require me to install a well pressure tank (outside). I am no plumber and less of an electrician, so luckily I have a professional electrician who will wire it all up for me. But as far as parts go, I want to make sure I am buying stuff that's compatible. I am also going to build an insulated box around it to keep it from freezing in the winter. I'm also planning on wrapping the water pipe that comes out of the ground (from the well) and into the tank as well as the pipe from the tank to the RV in heat tape. Maybe make a couple loops around the tank itself as well to add additional heat.
For the parts, I was thinking of buying the 32 Gal Water Worker Pressure Tank from Home Depot. It says it has a maximum PSI of 100 and comes pre-charged with 38 PSI in the empty (no water) tank.
If I understand that correctly, I will need a 40/60 pressure switch (thinking of getting the Everbilt also at Home Depot) that says it requires the PSI to be 38 when the tank is empty. But it will turn on when the pressure gets as low as 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. My question is, does that mean the tank will have to be almost empty first, before the pump even turns on? Do I have to worry that there is a gap of water flow if the pump takes a second to turn on and pump? The tank will be very close to the RV, but that's still about 100ft away from the actual well. Sorry I'm a noob. I also have 0 info on the actual well pump other than that it's 230V based on the cable that comes out of the ground (the electrician told me that).
Other than that I assume I only need a regular tank tee, a 100PSI pressure gauge, a boiler drain in case I need to drain the tank and a pressure relief valve.
Could anyone tell me if I have that right or if I am missing something? Whether it's a crucial step or piece of equipment?
Thank you!!!
submitted by askingforfriendxyz to Plumbing [link] [comments]
I recently bought some land that already had some utilities such as electric, septic, and a well. I'm going to park an RV there for recreational use. Turns out though, the builder told me I need to make sure there is enough water pressure going into the RV, which will likely require me to install a well pressure tank (outside). I am no plumber and less of an electrician, so luckily I have a professional electrician who will wire it all up for me. But as far as parts go, I want to make sure I am buying stuff that's compatible. I am also going to build an insulated box around it to keep it from freezing in the winter. I'm also planning on wrapping the water pipe that comes out of the ground (from the well) and into the tank as well as the pipe from the tank to the RV in heat tape. Maybe make a couple loops around the tank itself as well to add additional heat.
For the parts, I was thinking of buying the 32 Gal Water Worker Pressure Tank from Home Depot. It says it has a maximum PSI of 100 and comes pre-charged with 38 PSI in the empty (no water) tank.
If I understand that correctly, I will need a 40/60 pressure switch (thinking of getting the Everbilt also at Home Depot) that says it requires the PSI to be 38 when the tank is empty. But it will turn on when the pressure gets as low as 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. My question is, does that mean the tank will have to be almost empty first, before the pump even turns on? Do I have to worry that there is a gap of water flow if the pump takes a second to turn on and pump? The tank will be very close to the RV, but that's still about 100ft away from the actual well. Sorry I'm a noob. I also have 0 info on the actual well pump other than that it's 230V based on the cable that comes out of the ground (the electrician told me that).
Other than that I assume I only need a regular tank tee, a 100PSI pressure gauge, a boiler drain in case I need to drain the tank and a pressure relief valve.
Could anyone tell me if I have that right or if I am missing something? Whether it's a crucial step or piece of equipment?
Thank you!!!
2023.03.21 22:49 Glittering-Fox9908 Constant Bluetooth error
My tslim app is constantly getting a Bluetooth error and needs to be unpaired and then paired to the pump. Using a Samsung S21 with android 13. The phone and pump will stay paired for about and hour or two then will fault. Mobile bolus useless in this state. I waited for a couple of months for them to get Android 13 to work and about a couple weeks later this started happening. Not happy about this. Customer service is of no help.
submitted by Glittering-Fox9908 to TandemDiabetes [link] [comments]
2023.03.21 21:36 Reasonable-Soup9633 Advice on leaking septic tank?
https://imgur.com/a/HKnwYSx
My boyfriend says the septic tank is overflowing. His house used to be a vacation spot for his grandparents but he inherited it (about 6 years ago) and it hasn't been pumped in probably 10+ years.
The septic drain field should be where I drew the red arrow in the picture, but there's a giant wet spot that smells really bad occasionally. Usually after we use a lot of water in a short amount of time (dishwasher, washing machine, sink, ect.).
He assured me the wet spot is not raw sewage but the issue I have is that we get our wood delivered right next to where the smelly wet spot keeps growing.
I'm the one who splits the wood and brings it inside so I'm worried that I'm not only covering myself and the home in sewage, but we're also burning wood that's covered in it inside of the home.
Today it's a relatively warm day though and the wet spot doesn't smell so maybe it is safe?
I'm looking for any insight into what this wet spot is and how harmful it could be to our health please. My boyfriend has a tendency to downplay situations so I wanted to do my own research. Thank you in advance!
submitted by Reasonable-Soup9633 to Plumbing [link] [comments]
My boyfriend says the septic tank is overflowing. His house used to be a vacation spot for his grandparents but he inherited it (about 6 years ago) and it hasn't been pumped in probably 10+ years.
The septic drain field should be where I drew the red arrow in the picture, but there's a giant wet spot that smells really bad occasionally. Usually after we use a lot of water in a short amount of time (dishwasher, washing machine, sink, ect.).
He assured me the wet spot is not raw sewage but the issue I have is that we get our wood delivered right next to where the smelly wet spot keeps growing.
I'm the one who splits the wood and brings it inside so I'm worried that I'm not only covering myself and the home in sewage, but we're also burning wood that's covered in it inside of the home.
Today it's a relatively warm day though and the wet spot doesn't smell so maybe it is safe?
I'm looking for any insight into what this wet spot is and how harmful it could be to our health please. My boyfriend has a tendency to downplay situations so I wanted to do my own research. Thank you in advance!
2023.03.21 20:43 45acp_LS1_Cessna Well water 40 psi - 60 psi pressure switch working as 10 psi - 60 psi .....is there a typical culprit?
I have the typical WellMate WM-6 pressure tank with a PumpTrol Square D 9013FSG2. The setup is supposed to start pumping water when pressure goes below 40 psi and stop pumping when 60 psi is reached.
Well pump stops at 60 psi as it should but will not start again until pressure reaches 10 psi. I can't adjust the Square D pressure switch because it moves both settings at the same time or only the stop pressure, I cannot adjust only the start pressure.
Tonight I plan to turn power off, turn manual water shut off (after the pressure tank), drain the pressure tank then test the factory charge on the pressure tank and see if its low. Maybe I just need to top off the tank or it needs to be recharged and I'll be good but I doubt it....what causes something like this to happen is there a reoccuring issue that alot of people experience?
submitted by 45acp_LS1_Cessna to Plumbing [link] [comments]
Well pump stops at 60 psi as it should but will not start again until pressure reaches 10 psi. I can't adjust the Square D pressure switch because it moves both settings at the same time or only the stop pressure, I cannot adjust only the start pressure.
Tonight I plan to turn power off, turn manual water shut off (after the pressure tank), drain the pressure tank then test the factory charge on the pressure tank and see if its low. Maybe I just need to top off the tank or it needs to be recharged and I'll be good but I doubt it....what causes something like this to happen is there a reoccuring issue that alot of people experience?
2023.03.21 19:33 georgecm12 Options for draining dishwasher not close to sink
 | submitted by georgecm12 to Plumbing [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/jw0q2aley4pa1.jpg?width=1700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b438a92868362d8a1ec1df09431570d44fd144a7 I'm an owner of a townhome-style condo, slab foundation. The original layout for the kitchen had the dishwasher a distance away from the sink. Instead, the dishwasher had a standpipe drain and its own water feed. Back in 2020, I discovered that the standpipe wasn't properly draining and was overflowing in back of the cabinets, leading to a full gut and rebuild of the kitchen. The problem, it was believed, was that the horizontal run of the drain had a negative slope. When the kitchen was rebuilt, they addressed the slope of the drain and secured it properly (it had been outside the wall, in J-hooks attached to the wall, and the drain pipe had slipped out of the hooks). We - both the plumber I hired and I - thought the problem had been addressed, and it sure seemed to have been, but recently, the problem returned. The problem this time might be as simple as a clog in the drain that needs to be snaked... but I no longer trust that standpipe drain, as there's no easy way to detect issues with the drain hidden in back of the dishwasher. I want, if possible, to run the drain to the sink, as with most installations, and cap the standpipe. The drain is the only concern I have at this time; the water feed to the dishwasher is just fine. I've posted an image of the cabinet layout. Is it possible to run the drain from the dishwasher (DISHW24 on the layout) to the sink (SB42)? Based on the dimensions listed, it would be about a 12' horizontal run, if run along the outside walls, but that 12' doesn't include any vertical rise/drop required. Is 12'+ too far for the dishwasher to pump? (Are there dishwashers with a more powerful pump that can run further?) Second, if I were to do this, could I transition from the dishwasher's flexible drain tube to a copper line for the run from the dishwasher to the sink cabinet, then switch back to a flexible drain to connect to the garbage disposal? Is that allowed? Are there any other suggestions for mitigating these sorts of issues? |
2023.03.21 19:31 The3Dprintingfanatic What is this type of drain? New homeowner here and this is in our basement. I though it was for a sump pump but what is this pipe in here for? It seems to lead straight to the main water waste line you can see in the bottom left corner of of the pics. Also there is a pipe coming down from the wall.
 | submitted by The3Dprintingfanatic to Plumbing [link] [comments] |
2023.03.21 19:13 Olgojchorchoj911 Need a help with FAN/RGB controllers!
Hello,
next month I am planning to buy this setup:
TypeItemPrice
:----:----:----
**CPU** [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D] 12500.00Kč
**CPU Cooler** [ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/y7wypg/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-360-a-rgb-488-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00101a) 4269.00Kč @ Alza
**Motherboard** [Asus ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/2Z6p99/asus-rog-strix-x670e-f-gaming-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-rog-strix-x670e-f-gaming-wifi) -
**Memory** [G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr) 4599.00Kč
**Storage** [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) 4199.00Kč @ Alza
**Video Card** [Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/F3fnTW/sapphire-nitro-radeon-rx-7900-xtx-24-gb-video-card-11322-01-20g) 30990.00Kč @ Alza
**Case** [Fractal Design Meshify 2 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/cYD7YJ/fractal-design-meshify-2-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-mes2a-06) Purchased For 5250.00Kč
**Power Supply** [Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/jRvdnQ/corsair-rm1000x-2021-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020201-na) 4690.00Kč @ Alza
**Case Fan** [ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ6p99/arctic-p12-pst-a-rgb-0db-488-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-acfan00232a) 929.00Kč @ Alza
**Case Fan** [Fractal Design Aspect 14 RGB PWM 78 CFM 140 mm Fan](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/6zkWGX/fractal-design-aspect-14-rgb-pwm-78-cfm-140-mm-fan-fd-f-as1-1405) 509.00Kč @ Alza
Classical - sorry for my english, not a native speaker.
I will have Fractal Meshify 2 case, which has controller built in. Case comes with 4 × 140 mm fans, 3 at front and 1 at rear. I plan to install 1 additional 140 mm at the bottom and 3 additional 120 mm fans to radiator for push pull configuration.
All the fans will be RGB (maybe useless for 140 mm bottom fan and 3x 120 mm upper fans on radiator), totally I will have 5 × 140 mm RGB CASE fans and 6x 120 mm RGB Cooler fans.
This is the first time I will have more than 2 fans in my PC build. I am still not sure how to prepare my build for this, as I do not understand subject completely. I have tried to look up Youtube tutorials, but I still grasp to understand it completely, that I am 100 % confident what and how I will do it.
Can I ask you guys for a helping hand? What product should I buy, that everything will run smoothly?
I would like all RGB to be synced, also I would like to have possibility to play with fan settings, so I can adjust RPMS to have positive pressure in case.
What I understand is this:
- Daisy chaining right into a motherboard is bad, cause it can overload the connector.
- The solution to daisy chaining is controller, since it has power supplied from SATA.
- I will have 5 case fans and 6 cooler fans.
- all fans connected to controller act as one unit, controller cable goes into a motherboard, such as cpu_fan, sys_fan 1-X.
- CPU Cooler = I will have 6 fans, which have to be connected together, so they can work together as one unit. Solution is to daisy chain them, connect them to controller and connect controller to CPU_FAN slot on motherboard. PUMP cable goes straight to pump slot on motherboard.
- CASE FANS = these can be connected together in daisy chain, or put into a controller one by one, most controllers have 6 fans slots. In this case I could connect them to case controller, and then connect case controller to sys_fan1.
- RGB cables = these can be connected together and put on whatever controller I will have, since all they need is power and connection to MOBO for controlling. RGB cable goes to RGB slot on mobo.
With this config I will have option to optimize 2 fan curves in BIOS, right? CPU and SYS_FAN 1.
Will I be able to achieve positive pressure in case with this? Set CPU fan curve to my liking, then set SYS_FAN1 curve to look up CPU temps and apply RPMS by temperature to have positive pressure in case (will test with incense burning sticks).
Thanks all for help!
submitted by Olgojchorchoj911 to buildapc [link] [comments]
next month I am planning to buy this setup:
TypeItemPrice
:----:----:----
**CPU** [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D] 12500.00Kč
**CPU Cooler** [ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/y7wypg/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-360-a-rgb-488-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00101a) 4269.00Kč @ Alza
**Motherboard** [Asus ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/2Z6p99/asus-rog-strix-x670e-f-gaming-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-rog-strix-x670e-f-gaming-wifi) -
**Memory** [G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/CXKKHx/gskill-trident-z5-neo-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3038f16gx2-tz5nr) 4599.00Kč
**Storage** [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) 4199.00Kč @ Alza
**Video Card** [Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/F3fnTW/sapphire-nitro-radeon-rx-7900-xtx-24-gb-video-card-11322-01-20g) 30990.00Kč @ Alza
**Case** [Fractal Design Meshify 2 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/cYD7YJ/fractal-design-meshify-2-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-mes2a-06) Purchased For 5250.00Kč
**Power Supply** [Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/jRvdnQ/corsair-rm1000x-2021-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020201-na) 4690.00Kč @ Alza
**Case Fan** [ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ6p99/arctic-p12-pst-a-rgb-0db-488-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-acfan00232a) 929.00Kč @ Alza
**Case Fan** [Fractal Design Aspect 14 RGB PWM 78 CFM 140 mm Fan](https://cz.pcpartpicker.com/product/6zkWGX/fractal-design-aspect-14-rgb-pwm-78-cfm-140-mm-fan-fd-f-as1-1405) 509.00Kč @ Alza
Classical - sorry for my english, not a native speaker.
I will have Fractal Meshify 2 case, which has controller built in. Case comes with 4 × 140 mm fans, 3 at front and 1 at rear. I plan to install 1 additional 140 mm at the bottom and 3 additional 120 mm fans to radiator for push pull configuration.
All the fans will be RGB (maybe useless for 140 mm bottom fan and 3x 120 mm upper fans on radiator), totally I will have 5 × 140 mm RGB CASE fans and 6x 120 mm RGB Cooler fans.
This is the first time I will have more than 2 fans in my PC build. I am still not sure how to prepare my build for this, as I do not understand subject completely. I have tried to look up Youtube tutorials, but I still grasp to understand it completely, that I am 100 % confident what and how I will do it.
Can I ask you guys for a helping hand? What product should I buy, that everything will run smoothly?
I would like all RGB to be synced, also I would like to have possibility to play with fan settings, so I can adjust RPMS to have positive pressure in case.
What I understand is this:
- Daisy chaining right into a motherboard is bad, cause it can overload the connector.
- The solution to daisy chaining is controller, since it has power supplied from SATA.
- I will have 5 case fans and 6 cooler fans.
- all fans connected to controller act as one unit, controller cable goes into a motherboard, such as cpu_fan, sys_fan 1-X.
- CPU Cooler = I will have 6 fans, which have to be connected together, so they can work together as one unit. Solution is to daisy chain them, connect them to controller and connect controller to CPU_FAN slot on motherboard. PUMP cable goes straight to pump slot on motherboard.
- CASE FANS = these can be connected together in daisy chain, or put into a controller one by one, most controllers have 6 fans slots. In this case I could connect them to case controller, and then connect case controller to sys_fan1.
- RGB cables = these can be connected together and put on whatever controller I will have, since all they need is power and connection to MOBO for controlling. RGB cable goes to RGB slot on mobo.
With this config I will have option to optimize 2 fan curves in BIOS, right? CPU and SYS_FAN 1.
Will I be able to achieve positive pressure in case with this? Set CPU fan curve to my liking, then set SYS_FAN1 curve to look up CPU temps and apply RPMS by temperature to have positive pressure in case (will test with incense burning sticks).
Thanks all for help!
2023.03.21 18:55 Flyz_it_dies Water source pond
Question, do water extractors drain/deplete ponds at all? Nearest body of water near my coal mine is a pond just big enough for a couple water pumps.
submitted by Flyz_it_dies to SatisfactoryGame [link] [comments]
2023.03.21 18:07 Dirtyraccoonhands wrote my cfq . here's some questions I remember.
Oil pressure filter has been changed , still getting high oil pressure in the compressor? Cause ? At what speed do you adjust the speed on a variable belt drive ? How do you install a thermocouple? Ans . Thermowell. What causes blue smoke in diesel engine ? What causes water hammer in a centrifugal pump system ? Centrifugal pump over heating after installation? Steps setting up theodilite A stainless steel shroud has a Crack in it . How do you fix it ? There's excess moisture in the air lines. It's an adsorption drying system, What are the steps before rigging a horizontal split pumping casing How do you trip the over speed valve to make sure it's working in a steam turbine Would you use a journal bearing or tapered bearing for thrust loads in a screw compressor , and which end ? Where do you adjust chain tension on a parallel chain conveyor What would you use to spread a load when moving an object across a bridge Where is the condensate drain installed in a compressor system
submitted by Dirtyraccoonhands to millwrights [link] [comments]
2023.03.21 15:57 teknowledgist Heat pump water heater or not?
I currently have a 17-year-old, gas water heater. It's not giving me a problem yet, but I'm getting nervous about it and investigating replacing it. I am trying to be both economic and reduce my reliance on fossil fuels, and HPWHs look like a good option there.
I have the skill/knowledge to install one from a big-box store myself, but I'm not sure I trust the quality. Although more expensive, I'd prefer to have the warranty assurance and authority with the manufacturer of a professional installation.
However, the plumbers I've reached out to for quotes have been discouraging of HPWHs in favor of just replacing with gas. I live in upstate NY, so I realize that the efficiency in my 60-degree basement won't be as good as a 85-degree garage in the south, but I thought it was still an economical choice over the lifetime of the unit -- especially if I run it in heat-pump mode only without the direct heater element.
Am I incorrect? Am I stuck with gas?
Thanks!
I should add that the current WH is about as far away from the use outputs as possible in my house, but by eliminating fume exhaust needs, I can put a HPWH much closer (and luckily, that is where the drain also is). Thus, even if the lifetime cost is a wash, the shortened wait for hot water will be advantageous.
submitted by teknowledgist to WaterHeaterAdvice [link] [comments]
I have the skill/knowledge to install one from a big-box store myself, but I'm not sure I trust the quality. Although more expensive, I'd prefer to have the warranty assurance and authority with the manufacturer of a professional installation.
However, the plumbers I've reached out to for quotes have been discouraging of HPWHs in favor of just replacing with gas. I live in upstate NY, so I realize that the efficiency in my 60-degree basement won't be as good as a 85-degree garage in the south, but I thought it was still an economical choice over the lifetime of the unit -- especially if I run it in heat-pump mode only without the direct heater element.
Am I incorrect? Am I stuck with gas?
Thanks!
2023.03.21 14:39 matthekm When does it get easier?
I don’t know what to do anymore. Do I keep going? Do I give up? All I want to do is breastfeed my daughter, ideally exclusively. I never got this chance with my first born. He was a NICU baby born at 34weeks and due to many factors, one of which being poor advice, my milk never fully came in.
Baby girl was born at 38 weeks, currently 6 weeks old and 2 weeks post tongue/lip tie revision.
The first week seemed to be going well, she latched, nursed and was content. Week 2 started and she was inconsolable. She wasn’t getting enough milk from me and wasn’t gaining weight. The LC told me to start pumping to build and protect my milk supply but also put her to the breast. So we begin triple feeding. My days for the last 5 weeks have been breast, bottle, pump with 3 other pumps thrown in to make a total of 8 triple feeds and 11 pumps.
It has been a laundry list of issues and things to resolve. Her latch is shallow, her suck is poor, she can’t make a good seal, she has tongue/lip tie, now they say her tongue is weak. She’ll leak at the bottle, sometimes latch at the breast, will only remain at the breast for a few minutes and it’s not always “productive” sucking.
When does it end? When is it a lost cause? People talk about one day it just clicks — when is that?! Feeds haven’t been getting any better and I’m tired.
I’m tired of pumping. I’m tired of planning my day, my skin to skin time, my life around this damn machine and the every 2 hours I need to pump. I’m tired of hesitating to hold my daughter because I have to pump in 20mins or hesitate to pick her up because it’s uncomfortable to wedge her between the flanges.
I hate those people where breastfeeding comes so easily and naturally. Some of those people are my friends and I low key hate them. I hate that I’m spending all my time and energy on trying to make this work that I feel like I’m not giving my 2 year old son the attention he needs. I feel worthless. I can’t provide for my daughter or my son. There is no other area in my life where I’d fail consistently 8x a day and then come back and do it all over again the next day for 5 weeks straight.
I don’t know what I’m looking for from this post. Advice? Encouragement? Levity? I’m so mentally, emotionally and physically drained. I just want to see a small improvement to help my spirit. When does it get easier?
submitted by matthekm to breastfeeding [link] [comments]
Baby girl was born at 38 weeks, currently 6 weeks old and 2 weeks post tongue/lip tie revision.
The first week seemed to be going well, she latched, nursed and was content. Week 2 started and she was inconsolable. She wasn’t getting enough milk from me and wasn’t gaining weight. The LC told me to start pumping to build and protect my milk supply but also put her to the breast. So we begin triple feeding. My days for the last 5 weeks have been breast, bottle, pump with 3 other pumps thrown in to make a total of 8 triple feeds and 11 pumps.
It has been a laundry list of issues and things to resolve. Her latch is shallow, her suck is poor, she can’t make a good seal, she has tongue/lip tie, now they say her tongue is weak. She’ll leak at the bottle, sometimes latch at the breast, will only remain at the breast for a few minutes and it’s not always “productive” sucking.
When does it end? When is it a lost cause? People talk about one day it just clicks — when is that?! Feeds haven’t been getting any better and I’m tired.
I’m tired of pumping. I’m tired of planning my day, my skin to skin time, my life around this damn machine and the every 2 hours I need to pump. I’m tired of hesitating to hold my daughter because I have to pump in 20mins or hesitate to pick her up because it’s uncomfortable to wedge her between the flanges.
I hate those people where breastfeeding comes so easily and naturally. Some of those people are my friends and I low key hate them. I hate that I’m spending all my time and energy on trying to make this work that I feel like I’m not giving my 2 year old son the attention he needs. I feel worthless. I can’t provide for my daughter or my son. There is no other area in my life where I’d fail consistently 8x a day and then come back and do it all over again the next day for 5 weeks straight.
I don’t know what I’m looking for from this post. Advice? Encouragement? Levity? I’m so mentally, emotionally and physically drained. I just want to see a small improvement to help my spirit. When does it get easier?
2023.03.21 14:38 GardenGrammie45 UPDATE to HarvestRight Going Wrong
Read all of the comments from you wonderful folks, and I thank you for taking the time to post suggestions. They were both excellent and helpful! HR has sent us two software updates since my original post. After the second update, I was also scheduled and prepared to do a spray test with the HR troubleshooter guy on the phone. However, once my hubby removed the back off the FD, I pulled out the silicone and sealed it around the brass connector thingy that goes into the chamber. That was part 1.
Someone had mentioned humidity has being a cause for frost around the gasket/rim area. So, I had pulled a dehumidifier out from my shop, and put it in the room where the FD is. Filled up with water overnight. I had no idea that room was so humid! This led me down another path in thinking that perhaps water vapor had made its way into the oil pump, which might be cause for the stinky, cloudy oil. I filtered and froze the oil, only to discover little balls of ice in the oil - which means- yes there was water in the oil. So I ran the pump a few times, drained the oil, repeat..and then it finally started coming out clean. But, I made another discovery during all of this.... When the chamber was defrosting, and I'd let it sit after the defrost cycle (HR told me to do this), water was still inside the chamber. I pulled the shelves out and found a lengthy puddle from front to back of the chamber that had not drained. I grabbed a piece of 1/2 thick wood, and placed it under the front end of the FD, so any remaining water would be inclined towards the drain.
I still had a few puddles on the top of the shelf and in the bottom of the chamber- but no where near what there was. So, I just dry it out before running batches now. The software update was 5.4.24. which alters (slightly) the freeze temp and the vacuum. But, I gotta say....it all works perfectly now. Employing everything I've learned here and just from doodling around with it... we have success. So, thank you very muchly for your kind help and expertise!
submitted by GardenGrammie45 to HarvestRight [link] [comments]
Someone had mentioned humidity has being a cause for frost around the gasket/rim area. So, I had pulled a dehumidifier out from my shop, and put it in the room where the FD is. Filled up with water overnight. I had no idea that room was so humid! This led me down another path in thinking that perhaps water vapor had made its way into the oil pump, which might be cause for the stinky, cloudy oil. I filtered and froze the oil, only to discover little balls of ice in the oil - which means- yes there was water in the oil. So I ran the pump a few times, drained the oil, repeat..and then it finally started coming out clean. But, I made another discovery during all of this.... When the chamber was defrosting, and I'd let it sit after the defrost cycle (HR told me to do this), water was still inside the chamber. I pulled the shelves out and found a lengthy puddle from front to back of the chamber that had not drained. I grabbed a piece of 1/2 thick wood, and placed it under the front end of the FD, so any remaining water would be inclined towards the drain.
I still had a few puddles on the top of the shelf and in the bottom of the chamber- but no where near what there was. So, I just dry it out before running batches now. The software update was 5.4.24. which alters (slightly) the freeze temp and the vacuum. But, I gotta say....it all works perfectly now. Employing everything I've learned here and just from doodling around with it... we have success. So, thank you very muchly for your kind help and expertise!
2023.03.21 14:30 Slight_Ad6329 VADER REBORN Dark Lord of the Sith #25 sequel includes time travel
Ahsoka and Ezra messes up with something they should not have in The World Between Worlds. This allows Vader to reconstruct his body in the dark side locus of his fortress. A figure comes from the portal dressed in his clone wars suit this was Anakin Skywalker yet his eyes were glowing a reddish yellow and his darkness had corrupted those eyes as he obtained his new body. The second he enters the scene his old suited body stops gives a last deep breath away and stops functioning. It was Vader's malice his hatred that kept it alive. Vader first looked at his old body pulled his lightsaber and holo to his hand, then to the lifeless mask of Lord Momin. And his holo communication presented a call from the Emperor. He broke the holo without answering .He must have felt the tremor in the force. If he was to take over the empire Vader had to act quickly. He had to clean the scene first. He was not just going to stab and close the portal he had to tear the castle down to make it seem like he died in an accident. He used the locuses power to destroy the castle He took Padme's ship and watched his castle sink in lava.
Palpatine, his new apprentice Darth Seiner who was known as Quinlan Vos before who he had been training and leading inquisitors now but they were not enough to replace the Imperial Machine so he added Cylos proteges except the twins (they are toddlers) Palpatine, Tarkin, Amedda, Cylo and some important imperial officials were discussing remaining Jedi, Mon Cala, new conquests and Vader's death Tarkin and the Grand Inquisitor's investigation suggested that Vader used the locus' power to defeat the native attackers but then could not control the power and a following force explosion caused Vaders death. Tarkin was not satisfied. He did not understand this supernatural fenomenon called the force but he could not believe Vader was dead after all. Grand Inquisitor was joyful Vader was dead even him not being promoted to Sith could not shadow this joy. There was going to be a long meetings this month. Darth Seiner was back from missions to crush resisting planets. Tarkin had just exited a meeting with Palpatine and Seiner and was going back to his office, Seiner and him could not get along. They almost yelled at eachother. If the Emperor was not present Tarkin would not be alive. When he was just about to enter his office he felt a tight cold grasp in his neck draining his life. "So this is the end" he thought but then he realizes he knew this grasp. He smirked devilishly and said -Oh its just you Vader, letting him go entered the chamber along with him.
-I see you want me as an ally I...
-As a servant Tarkin
Tarkin smirked -You know you almost had me Vader Let me guess you knew any scanner I would bring with me would be Eriadu tech, so you rigged a charge in your ship to draw our attention to your castle, it is a shame it was quite the artitecture according to my sources. -The emperor suspects nothing and Vos will draw Kenobi to my hands, this will be your priority -I will make sure your vengeance with the Jedi will be satisfied my emperor, but this is not the reason you reached out to me is it? Vader raised his eyebrows
-What is the condition of the weapon?
-Your suspicions are correct. It has the capacity of a planetary destruction on hand yet we keep it a secret for now perhaps I can manage to destroy emperors fleet but we only have one chance to use its power anywhere if not the fleet
Vader was in doubt, he waited a few seconds to think
-No, you will use it on General Eron's we will handle the Emperor here on the station.
-As you wish my lord.
Palpatine was inspecting Death Star with great pleasure. Then suddenly he felt millions of voices cried out in terror and silenced. He was then informed that the Death Star was fired without his authorization. Apparently there was a sudden coup with General Eron "Tarkin!" he growled storming along with Mas Amedda and Cylo to the commander quarters. Tarkin was waiting for him -Excuse the panic my Emperor but we just acted against a military coup organized by General Eron and his friends along with Senator Organa and other pro-democracy senators
Palpatine ordered Darth Seiner to slay those Senators. He left swiftly with an army
Palpatine was in rage he opened his mouth to growl But then he stopped in confusion Wait! He sensed a presence, a presence he haven't felt since... The second he could identify the presence his guards necks was broken in a blink of an eye. Mass Amedda rolled his eyes and murmored
-Not this Bantha shit again, follow me Doctor Cylo and they left the scene
Anakin walks in with his shaved head and a black suit of armor.. He changed his lightsaber hilt this was more like his old lightsaber
-Apprentice!
Sidious had never felt such fear before Vader spoke with a young man's voice with the most robotic and hateful manner
-I am no longer your apprentice
Palpatine was not going to let him slide so easy
-You are my glorious heir Vader but will you kill me before I helped you save Pa...
He could not finish his sentence as Vader made his move they both Force Leaped while using force scream on eachother. https://youtube.com/shorts/Qxp1cNzAkHY?feature=share
While the inquisitors made their attacks not really effective Vader was so powerful he was slashing every inquisitor while dueling Palpatine at the same time. Palpatine was doing his best to stop him. Then he felt the kick of Vader in his stomach. He fell down to another level but managed to land well. He started puking blood. Any mortal would die to this but he was a Sith Lord kept together by the darkside. He was not going back to there that would be madness. That brief moments of his absence was all Vader needed to kill all of the inquisitors. Palpatine was again in contact with Vader he was not going to last long with his lightsaber proficiency was the only thing keeping him alive. But Vader, with his mix of form 5 and his primitive new tricky aggressive defensive combination of form 5 and 9 was too deadly. And with his reformed powers fast and powerful. Palpatine was suddenly amputated in leg in a flip by Vader's sneaky trick style and fell down. Palpatine was crawling and he looked up he saw Vader staring at him. He was not smiling but Palpatine could tell he was amused and it made him angry Palpatine unleashed all his wrath with his purpley blue force lightning while Vader unleashed his red lightning of pain and rage. Palpatine is overpowered as the red lightning choked his lightning and reaches him consuming him and killing him in a blink
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxZazGcYG8w2q_FbdDauw3zHws23LsDpQu
https://www.google.com/search?q=vader+lightning+red&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiosqPA4-z9AhUzgP0HHbruA9YQ2-cCegQIABAC&client=ms-android-samsung-trvo1&prmd=insv#imgrc=ZmDJgvcVZ74-SM&lnspr=W10=
Will Vader be able to save Padmé? Will the heroes be able to stop him? Will he take over the galaxy?
Wait for Part 2 to find out
submitted by Slight_Ad6329 to SWFanfic [link] [comments]
Palpatine, his new apprentice Darth Seiner who was known as Quinlan Vos before who he had been training and leading inquisitors now but they were not enough to replace the Imperial Machine so he added Cylos proteges except the twins (they are toddlers) Palpatine, Tarkin, Amedda, Cylo and some important imperial officials were discussing remaining Jedi, Mon Cala, new conquests and Vader's death Tarkin and the Grand Inquisitor's investigation suggested that Vader used the locus' power to defeat the native attackers but then could not control the power and a following force explosion caused Vaders death. Tarkin was not satisfied. He did not understand this supernatural fenomenon called the force but he could not believe Vader was dead after all. Grand Inquisitor was joyful Vader was dead even him not being promoted to Sith could not shadow this joy. There was going to be a long meetings this month. Darth Seiner was back from missions to crush resisting planets. Tarkin had just exited a meeting with Palpatine and Seiner and was going back to his office, Seiner and him could not get along. They almost yelled at eachother. If the Emperor was not present Tarkin would not be alive. When he was just about to enter his office he felt a tight cold grasp in his neck draining his life. "So this is the end" he thought but then he realizes he knew this grasp. He smirked devilishly and said -Oh its just you Vader, letting him go entered the chamber along with him.
-I see you want me as an ally I...
-As a servant Tarkin
Tarkin smirked -You know you almost had me Vader Let me guess you knew any scanner I would bring with me would be Eriadu tech, so you rigged a charge in your ship to draw our attention to your castle, it is a shame it was quite the artitecture according to my sources. -The emperor suspects nothing and Vos will draw Kenobi to my hands, this will be your priority -I will make sure your vengeance with the Jedi will be satisfied my emperor, but this is not the reason you reached out to me is it? Vader raised his eyebrows
-What is the condition of the weapon?
-Your suspicions are correct. It has the capacity of a planetary destruction on hand yet we keep it a secret for now perhaps I can manage to destroy emperors fleet but we only have one chance to use its power anywhere if not the fleet
Vader was in doubt, he waited a few seconds to think
-No, you will use it on General Eron's we will handle the Emperor here on the station.
-As you wish my lord.
Palpatine was inspecting Death Star with great pleasure. Then suddenly he felt millions of voices cried out in terror and silenced. He was then informed that the Death Star was fired without his authorization. Apparently there was a sudden coup with General Eron "Tarkin!" he growled storming along with Mas Amedda and Cylo to the commander quarters. Tarkin was waiting for him -Excuse the panic my Emperor but we just acted against a military coup organized by General Eron and his friends along with Senator Organa and other pro-democracy senators
Palpatine ordered Darth Seiner to slay those Senators. He left swiftly with an army
Palpatine was in rage he opened his mouth to growl But then he stopped in confusion Wait! He sensed a presence, a presence he haven't felt since... The second he could identify the presence his guards necks was broken in a blink of an eye. Mass Amedda rolled his eyes and murmored
-Not this Bantha shit again, follow me Doctor Cylo and they left the scene
Anakin walks in with his shaved head and a black suit of armor.. He changed his lightsaber hilt this was more like his old lightsaber
-Apprentice!
Sidious had never felt such fear before Vader spoke with a young man's voice with the most robotic and hateful manner
-I am no longer your apprentice
Palpatine was not going to let him slide so easy
-You are my glorious heir Vader but will you kill me before I helped you save Pa...
He could not finish his sentence as Vader made his move they both Force Leaped while using force scream on eachother. https://youtube.com/shorts/Qxp1cNzAkHY?feature=share
While the inquisitors made their attacks not really effective Vader was so powerful he was slashing every inquisitor while dueling Palpatine at the same time. Palpatine was doing his best to stop him. Then he felt the kick of Vader in his stomach. He fell down to another level but managed to land well. He started puking blood. Any mortal would die to this but he was a Sith Lord kept together by the darkside. He was not going back to there that would be madness. That brief moments of his absence was all Vader needed to kill all of the inquisitors. Palpatine was again in contact with Vader he was not going to last long with his lightsaber proficiency was the only thing keeping him alive. But Vader, with his mix of form 5 and his primitive new tricky aggressive defensive combination of form 5 and 9 was too deadly. And with his reformed powers fast and powerful. Palpatine was suddenly amputated in leg in a flip by Vader's sneaky trick style and fell down. Palpatine was crawling and he looked up he saw Vader staring at him. He was not smiling but Palpatine could tell he was amused and it made him angry Palpatine unleashed all his wrath with his purpley blue force lightning while Vader unleashed his red lightning of pain and rage. Palpatine is overpowered as the red lightning choked his lightning and reaches him consuming him and killing him in a blink
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxZazGcYG8w2q_FbdDauw3zHws23LsDpQu
https://www.google.com/search?q=vader+lightning+red&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiosqPA4-z9AhUzgP0HHbruA9YQ2-cCegQIABAC&client=ms-android-samsung-trvo1&prmd=insv#imgrc=ZmDJgvcVZ74-SM&lnspr=W10=
Will Vader be able to save Padmé? Will the heroes be able to stop him? Will he take over the galaxy?
Wait for Part 2 to find out