My list of "Low Wattage Appliances"

1. 12v (DC) units are about 20% to 75% (avg 40%) more power efficient than 110/220v (AC) units
2. but 100w is 100w, DC or AC (but invertors vampire power)
3. Peltier's are very efficient heaters (>200w/70C) & coolers (70w = 2.5C / 200w = 5C), at a small scale
4. unneeded screens/lights & TURN TABLES (think microwaves) drain power, unnecessarily
5. 1/4hp / 0.2kw hand/foot powered units can produce about 200kWh (for the avg human adult)
6. to heat an area to room temp, you need 9w/sq ft (8ft tall), about 50% that to cool (AC BTU's)

PRE-POST: "TPV 1kW MAGMA-WATT QUART" TENT WOOD STOVE

HOT AIWATER, FAN & 200w GENERATOR + 50aH BATTERY

Its Called "Thermophotovoltaic energy conversion", works well combined with 200w foldup solar panel
"MAGMA-WATT QUART"
CAN RUN A 1cu ft FREEZER (-5C), 3 cu ft fridge (2.5C) or Boil/Cool 1G water (adjust for combo)
Half size possible, bigger also possible, but a unit able to exceed 770F WILL DESTROY PELTIER

• unless you invest in a very costly hi-temp peltier

The ignition temperature of wood is around 482ºF

• Theoretically, you can turn 1C heat output in to 1W energy
• You will likely only get 66% this IRL 1C = 0.66W... 0.83w is possible
• Practical systems can achieve Tcell= ~300 K & Temit= ~1800 K, giving a maximum possible efficiency of ~83%

MATH:

• 3,200 mAh in 2.5 to 3 hours, thats, energy from kilowatt hour to watt minute conversion:
• Amount : 1.1 kilowatt hours (kWh of energy)
• Equals : 66 000.00 watt minutes (W·min / energy)

As shown, but with flat top (extreme rear stove pipe), 6" diameter "pot/pan" heating surface
Peltier "sandwiched" in "top thermal mass's" air gap

• Wood, Sawdust/Oil, Waste Oil Drip, Alcohol ... Etc. (Burn what you like)
• Size of a 1 Gallon "Paint Can", Aluminum/Copper (no glass) "Improved" Combo of

1. https://www.instructables.com/Miniature-Camp-Stove/
2. https://www.instructables.com/Under-20-Rocket-StoveHeate
3. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Stove-Fan-for-under-50/
4. https://www.instructables.com/Fire-Power-Electricity-from-heat/
5. You need a deep cycle, 50aH battery (Li/Gel = 14lbs), and solar type charge setup (30a)
6. A pipe oven or water tank unit could be added

Built as: "1 Gallon Matryoshka Can Kit"

1. OUTTER BODY: 6.5" (sized to 1 Gallon) Copper Pipe, coated in high temp paint
2. THERMAL MASS: Molding Clay, SEMI-Drying type OR FINE Powered clay
3. BURN CHAMBER: 5-7/8" (sized to 0.5 Gallon) Copper Pipe TRIPLE coated in high temp paint
4. 1/8" inner Copper plate (insulator) - 1/16" air gap (peltier) - 1/8" Copper Plate (bio static cooktop)
5. FEED CHAMBER: Aluminum 1 Pint can, coated in high temp paint
6. DAMPER: 0.5" Aluminum tube, 3" long, with washebutterfly nut, coated in high temp paint
7. STOVE PIPE/LEGS: 1.25" to 1" Telescoping Aluminum tube, 5.5" to 30", coated in high temp paint

Cooper insulatocool top only areas uncoated in high temp paint
Concept, commercial unit shown
paint cans
Aluminum
Copper
Fan
fire (heat) = power

//

MAIN POST

AIO UNITS

• All in one kitchenettes start at 900w, with a max draw of 1500w on 900w units

Toaster (Slice)

Maybe the hardest to source, neXt to microwave!

• Either 4x 100w burners (rarest, 2 slice 400w) or or 2x 200w (common, 1-slice 400w)
• DIY 100w Toaster (100w burner, 2-slice meet burner it middle, manual flip, insulated side doors)

The "best". imho, if your after lowest power (I mod'ed a a toggle to turn of 1 slice slot's burners)
Polar 400w Electric Toaster, model: Pt-2 (you can turn it into a 200w unit!)

• https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/electric-toaster-13296419648.html
• can be mod'ed like I said to a 200w/400w unit (just interrupts power flow to 1 set of burners)
• 5 power levels (100-500w) save energy and avoid tripping the electric supply at campsites
• there are 110 & 220 units, there WAS a 12v unit (no longer made from what I can find)
• I believe they are made in India
• metered, uses 0.032 kWh to toast 2 slices (5 minutes)
• metered, uses 0.016 kWh to toast 1 slice when on mod toggle (5 minutes)
• COVERING TOP = 10% faster, 30 seconds saved on 5 minutes (& so 10% less power used)
• A lot like boiling water 4-6 minute sweet spot ("browning" dial)

Electric Hot plate

• 100w to 475w (dial) single burner
• units that max out at 300w to 350w exist
• many brands, some are 12v

Boil water

• 400ml (0.4L/13.5oz) 300W = 5 minutes to boiling (high insulate body)
• 650ml (0.65L/24oz) 460w = 5 minute to boiling (food grade silicon body)
• many brands, some are 12v

Slow Cook

• 75w to 125w slow cooker (exceeds 101C/215F, slow boils)
• many brands, some are 12v

Oven (Bay Cooker)

• 155w mini-oven (12v, will hold a temp of 120C/250F after it heats up)
• units in the 200w to 550w range exist (hot box, or, Dash mini, up to 235C/455F)

Air fryer

• 450w mini air fryer ("nano")
• 225w DIY mini air fryer (220w Peltier + 5w blower fan = 70-90C) BYPRODUCT = COLD WATEAIR

Microwave

SO HARD TO FIND INFO ON, BUT HERE IS THE MODEL AND MAKER

• 5a/500w Igenix microwave (570w draw)
• Can be converted to 350w (390w draw)

Fridge/Freezer

• Summit 330w mini-fridge/freezer combo
• DIY 70w fridge / 200w freezer (Peltier, combo unit is 280w) BYPRODUCT = HOT WATEAIR

Pump wateliquid (2 meter lift)

• 1/4hp / 0.2kw foot pump, one way valve
• 7w pump, 5w if lift is under 3ft and speed/pressure is not required

Hot (ShoweWash) Water

• About 50w a gallon, or 500w per gallon on demand
• Commercial units start at 200w (the smallest 1.3G's and 4.5G's both seem 200w at lowest)

Flow of water

• Bricor UltraMax Ultra Low Flow Shower Head 0.55GPM, with navy valve
• Bricor Pre-Rinse Sprayer 0.5GPM (Anti-Grim Stream Aeration, 1x Shower / 1x Kitchen)
• Bricor Low Flow Aerators 0.375GPM (in kitchen & bathroom sinks)

Laundry Combo

• >9L, 1/4hp / 0.2kw, hand/foot power crank (cold spin dry only)
• 1.6cu ft Conserv RV Washer-Dryer Combo (500w)
• 18L, 250w+500w (many brand, micro's, 2 unit)
• 36L, 900w (Avanti/Danby/Summit)

Why... its confusing to read my live notes.... even for me before I have a coffee, here is a brief summary of my goals:
////
"Cheater Shed" Floorplan, 10.4'x10.4' Footprint, Cantilevered To 14.4'x14.4', 2 Level, 415sq ft!

• On 6"-12" Concrete Block "no dig" foundation, making it 18'6" to 19" tall at awning peak (highest)
• Roof 2x8 lumber to R60, Exterior walls 2x6 lumber to R40, interior walls 4"/2x4 lumber to R7.5
• Bathroom is 7x2.85 (20sq ft), pocket door is 30", shower is 30"x36" + 4.5sq ft linen closet (25.5sq ft)
• 24"x28" (40"H) 1.6 to 2.2cu ft laundry combo under stair well, accordion doored, 7sq ft (32sq ft)
• NOTE: Rearranging lower floor laundry/linen/bathroom to combo will make a 32sq ft bathroom
• Combo area is 17sq ft stairwell + 157sq ft+ (= 207.5sq ft lower floor)
• Mini 8G Hot-Water Tank under kitchen sink, heated by tiny HE Mini-Split Heat-Pump (both 900W)
• Lower floor has a full length cupboard/pantry over kitchen/3 seat eating nook on west wall (left)
• upper floor split into a 75sq ft room a 95sq ft room, 17sq ft stairs with a landing hallway
• Entry stoop/step is free standing (doesn't count towards footprint)
• OPTIONAL: Flat top, with a railed roof-top patio os 200sq ft+ (minus entry stairs)

WIP \"Cheater Shed\" Floorplan 415sq ft!

PROJECT "PERMITLESS 1 BED/1 BATH DRY-BUNKIE, 315.5sq ft"

The greatest bunkie ever, but you need to carry water (chopping wood optional)
Careful planning lets us straddle the sq ft area a typical "Bachelor" & "1 Bedroom" apartment

• 108sq ft footprint, 1.5 (not 2) floor, entry/bedroom lower, rest on upper floor.
• Lowest sides at stairwell, one side, and kitchen counter wall, other side
• entire unit, lower and upper levels, both have 6'10.5" ceilings (14'8" tall)
• To do this with a MAX 12ft tall 2x6 wall, a "Kneel Wall" OR "Gambrel Roof" are likely NEEDED
• LOWER: 11sq ft for main entryway landing/stairwell (enter at landing directly, to both door & Stairs to upper level) & 65sq ft bedroom + 32sq ft dry bathroom (with manual laundry)
• UPPER: 207.5sq ft Open concept Dry Kitchen, dining, & living combination "mezzanine" area
• Heavily braced ATD "Ships ladder", with single fixed mount. That keeps mezzanine area from being counted towards sq ft total, but remains safe/legal for an "accessory building"
• "ATD Ships Ladder" Note: un fixed side to be secured by bolt/eyelet (and "temporarily" fixed in place with carriage bolt and nut) 40" long for 84" up OR 8.89sq ft used

Water weighs 8lbs per gallon, try to keep ALL "Black" & most "Grey" water downstairs.

• A 5 gallon "White water" jug is easy enough to carry up stairs (a large "sports team" drink jug)
• A 2nd 5 gallon jug (different colour) can be used for upstairs "Grey water" storage
• A 3rd, 5 gallon jug, (again 3rd colour) for "White water", to showewash with, kept in bathroom
• Cassette toilet's, built in, "Black water tank" is 10 gallons, with wheels & handles (see pic below), it accepts all bathroom grey water also
• Water best lifted with a small over head pully/rope (fixed block & tackle) rated for storing a bike (dual use!) or hand pumped from a lower 5g jug to an upper 5g jug

Fitting Stairs, "ATD" over ship ladder or True ladder (now common in factories/naval ship)
Safety. Most deadly falls are caused falling less than 3ft from \"fall height\"
Example of well done stair placement, POOR CHOICE OF STAIRS TYPE
example of well done stair placement, POOR CHOICE OF STAIRS TYPE
Below is a decent design, minus the side cantilevers

• Like this, but 360 degree cantilever top & full 2/12 skillion (Lean-too or Gambrel if needed) roof
• Cut-away sod, filled/leveled, tamped pavers, mortar sealed, serve as a "not foundation"
• So the 5ft tall 24" 360 degree cantilevered wall, on 6'10.5" lumber wall = 11'10.5 tall, WITHOUT roof, WITH 4'2.5" tall roof placed (any style) peak will be approx 15ft
• if limited to 13'2" ("13.1ft"), trim each level's height to 6'4" (91%+ of ppl are under 6'3")

Similar design
Similar design 2
"Hummingbird Loft" Micro House Concept (designed by the late John Murchie, deceased as of 2015)
Link 2: https://tinyhousetalk.com/hummingbird-tiny-house-loft/
OG \"Hummingbird Loft\" Brochure
360 cantilevel'ed Floorplan edited by me:

• I didnt change numbers BUT:
• Lower is 124.7" x 124.7" (10'4-7/16" x 10'4-7/16") 108sq ft
• Upper is 172.7" x 172.7 (14'4-7/16" x 14'4-7/16") = 207.5sq ft (lose 9.5sq ft to loft entry area/ATD)
• Total: 315.5sq ft (304sq ft usable)

Note: Cantilever corners can be cut, as shown, if your local code requires it (8sq ft lost, 296 usable)
CHANGES:

1. Minimize Door width/height to 30" standard, 30" "roller pocket" doors on bath & bed rooms
2. Minimize to only 3 required windows (10% of "room" area, egress able), security port on door area large enough to cover that areas "window" need
3. Mirror loft entry to opposite side (left, not right, pictured), resize to 2'8" x 2'8"
4. place ship ladder ATD fixed mount where coat hooks are (give up 2 hooks) = out of way
5. Split lower floor into 3 areas: entry/bathroom/bedroom
6. Lower floor expanded floor plan allows a bedroom 6'6" x 10'4-7/116", with 4x7 bed, in place of kitchen/fold down table area
7. Lower floor expanded floor plan also allows a 3'6" x 6'3" bathroom, with 36" shower stall
8. Move all other facilities (kitchenette/nook, table & living area) to loft level

Edited Hummingbird Loft
DIY "Blanked Out" Hummingbird" Default lofts
​
blank hummingbird
Better Layout? https://www.instructables.com/Off-Grid-Stealth-Cabin-Plans/
8x8 free standing shed/dry "Stealth Cabin"By LaMar Solarcabin Simple Solar Homesteading
\"Stealth cabin\" 8x8ft, loft not shown
8ft x 13.5ft version would use the 8 x 12 type floor plan?
​
8x12 floorplan, type 1 & 2
8x12 floorplan, type 3
/////
General Information to help you get started

1. An accessory building is any building that is separate and secondary to the mainbuilding on a property. For residential properties, accessory buildings may include garages, garden sheds, pool cabanas, workshops, and gazebos etc.
2. As with any new building project, it is always a good idea to contact the Planning and Development department to determine if there are any restrictions you need to be aware of before you begin.
3. If your project is less than 108 sq ft (10m2) and it does not include plumbing, or fall within five feet of another structure, you may not require a building permit.

Accessory Buildings and Structures on Vacant Lands

• Accessory structures shall not be permitted on vacant land, including land used for a forestry or livestock use.
• No building or structure of less than 10 sq m in size and no temporary or seasonal buildings and structures that are designed to be dismantled and re-erected, such as fabric or plastic covered, metal or wood framed structures, shall be constructed on a lot unless it is accessory to a legal non-conforming, or to a permitted principal building or structure already in existence on the lot. >> Such structures shall be subject to the requirements of Section 3.2.

Permitted Purposes
Where this By-law provides that a lot may be used or a building or structure may be erected or used for a purpose, that purpose shall include any accessory building or structure or accessory use, provided the principal building, structure or use is already in existence on the lot, but shall not include the following:

• (i) any occupation for gain or profit conducted within or accessory to a dwelling unit or on such lot associated therewith, except as is specifically permitted in accordance with this By-law; or
• (ii) any building used for human habitation except in accordance with this By-law, as is specifically permitted.

Accessory building height & spacing notes (latest as of March 2023)
In This Case, 108 sq ft (10m2) variant
The Ontario Building Code (OBC) requires a building permit for any structure with floor space greater than 10 square metres (108 sq. ft.). See other "PLUMBING" notes.
This "bunkie" was designed with that stricture in mind: At 8' by 13'6", (or 10"4-11/16' x 10"4-11/16') it is exactly 108 sq. ft. and therefore, in most jurisdictions, does not need that particular documentation (Any, as long as you dont dig, & only fill/level, if needed).

• But check first: Some municipalities require permits for anything over 100 sq. ft.
• Anything accessed by a laddeships ladder, doesnt count towards interior sq ft, but we are onlyreally concerned about BUILDING FOOTPRINT sq ft (Lofts/Mezzanines are NOT 2nd floors)

108sq ft variant, 8\" x 13\"6'

What are the rules for Stairs OBC? (About 9sq ft lost, if an ATD)

(2'8.55" Wide + 11" Deep + 7-7/8" High, OR 6.5ft long for 7ft up)

1. (1) Stairs shall be inclined at an angle of not more than 45° with the horizontal, and their steps shall have risers not more than 210 (8.25") mm high and treads not less than 220 mm (8.66") wide exclusive of nosing.
2. (2) Stairway headroom shall be not less than 1 950 mm (6'5") plus the height of one riser measured vertically above the nosing of any tread or platform.
3. [..] Stairs serving a single dwelling unit shall have a width of not less than 860 mm
4. Railings, of set height, are required. Check local code.

NOTE: A "Landing" of no less of 32"x32", if required (Generally bottom "should" have a landing area)

• Thats, roughly, 23sq ft lost to "Entry/Landing" + "Stairs"

BUT: Alternating Tread Device, Stairs - "ATD" 40" long for 84" up

Tightest/smallest that "would" pass OBC, but more importantly, thats SAFE
Alternating tread devices shall have a tread depth of not less than 5 inches, a projected tread depth of not less than 8-1/2 inches, a tread width of not less than 7 inches. Tread depths are measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projections of adjacent treads.
Alternating Tread Stairs are allowable as a means of egress for the following:
As primary access to lofts, mezzanines, or observation decks of not more than 250 sq ft (1011.14.2)

• Can be 32" wide (minimum, via OBC) and just over 40" long to reach a height of 7ft
• As a fixed structure, alternating tread stairs are much safer than any ladder or ship stair.
• Due to difference in rise/run allowed both planes are 45 degrees, "cross alternating", more similar in run to 68 degrees (but is 2x 45 degrees)
• Unlike a spiral type staircase, they are legal for main access to a building level
• You can save about 50% sq ft of stairs (about 10sq ft saved, for 1 level flight)
• only use 8.89sq ft for a 40" long for 84" up (which is what we want)

composite image, stairs stuff

What is the maximum lumber wall height OBC? (Its 12ft)

• The National Building Code of Canada limits the height of wood framed walls to a maximum of 3.6 m (12').
• Load bearing = 2x6 & 2x8 only, 2x4's are a no-no unless non-load bearing
• Gypsum board ceilings (& obviously flooring) are NOT acceptable for lateral support

What is the maximum cantilever OBC? (its 2ft per side)

The Ontario Building Code Cantilevered Floor Joists
"(1) floor joists supporting roof loads shall not be cantilevered more than 400 mm beyond their supports where 38 mm by 184 mm joists are used and not more than 600 mm beyond their supports where 38 mm by 235 mm or larger joists are used."

• 600mm is 60cm, or 0.6m, which is 24 inches
• 235mm Joists are also called 9-1/2" Joists

composite Cantilevered Floor Joists stuff image
It can not have "plumbing"

1. "A plumbing system consists of three parts: an adequate potable water supply system; a safe, adequate drainage system; and ample fixtures and equipment."
2. "Plumbing does not include drilling water wells; installing water softening equipment; or manufacturing or selling plumbing fixtures, appliances, equipment, or hardware."

"NO's"

• No Digging, use 2x6 lumber on Deck-Blocks to level
• This would include a "running" drinking water system, aka a "wet sink" (potable), use water cooler
• Wet Sinks & Toilets (Drainage), but not dry sinks and composting/cassette toilets (use them)
• Any drained bath/shower, a dry tub (tub no plumbed drain) would be ok? (sounds fine, imho use it)

Notes for 108 sq ft (10m2) variant

• Saltbot + Obeying 40% of main floor sq ft mezzanine rule: 108 + 43.2 = 151.2sq ft
• Gambrel + Un-Posted "loft mushroom" would give "full" 1.5 floor loft, for 315.5sq ft+!
• YES! 108 + 207.5 = 315.5sq ft! MINUS, about 14sq ft, for stairs (Usable = 301.5sq ft+)
• But would not break code technically, as "accessory buildings" dont need to follow "dwelling" loft codes in OBC (still need to be "safe", but ships ladder becomes acceptable)

Needs a "1 Story With Loft" Design

• Saltbox, Barn Gambrel, are most suitable to a "1 story with loft"
• Loft High 2:12/10:12 Saltbox seems to be best of all factors, like cost/ease & it looks modern
• Allows a 7'6.5" ceiling, low side, & 14'11.5" ceiling, high (peak) side, with 2:12/10:12 saltbox roof
• About a 5'5" wide, x 8' long, space with a ceiling height of/over 6'10.5" = 43sq ft+ loft
• Rough total height of building, exterior = 15.5ft (10ft, slope of 39.81 degrees, to 15.5ft peak, slope 9.5 degree to 10ft)

BUT 2022 Addendum Says:

OBC \"No Permit\" 2022 changes (latest as of March 2023)
The Ontario Building Code (OBC) requires a building permit for any structure with floor space greater than 15 square metres (161.459 sq. ft.). See other "PLUMBING" notes.
This "bunkie" was designed with that stricture in mind: At 8' by 20'0.1875", (or 12"7-7/32' x 12"7-7/32) it is exactly 161.459 sq. ft. and therefore, in most jurisdictions, does not need that particular documentation (Any, as long as you dont dig, & only fill/level, if needed).

• But check first: Some municipalities require permits for anything over 100 sq. ft.

​
In this case, it can not have a "Second Story"

1. This means "NOT OVER 4 meters, at 4 meter unit spacing, or 6 meters at 6 meter unit spacing
2. but a loft, as a railed mezzanine no more than 40% the sq ft floor space
3. 40% is over 64sq ft. OR up to 64.58 sq ft, is safe, if people are nosy measuring it
4. This must be 6'10.5" at its tallest point (at least), area under this height is not counted to sq ft
5. Must have at least 6'10.5" of height under it also (13'9" plus floor thickness, 5.5", between)

It can have a "permanent foundation", but doesn't need 1

1. No Biggy, building, plus load, is light, 4"x4" Concrete Deck-Block (or even Hardwood Skids) will work
2. May have a small crawl space (likely 1ft) to use for storage (grey water tank?). Must be cladded
3. May need a, gravity set, single concrete 1-step block at entry

///////
//////

NOTES ON VERSION: 226sq ft total (main 161.45 + loft 64.55)

• 64.55sq ft loft is over twice the size of a typical 1 bedroom apartment bathroom (32sq ft)
• Loft is 0.45sq ft off a "spare bedroom" size (30.45sq ft away from a "master bedroom" size)
• Target use is "sleeping area" but its big enough for use as a small entertainment area or den

Design Notes To Myself

Needs no permit under 161.459sq ft, no drawings, no engineer approval & no inspections

• It may have both power and heat (just not real plumbing)
• An “accessory” buildings only occupy a percentage of the total land area of lot (around 10%).
• Past that, you have no limit in number, technically, but a 1m (3.3ft) spacing between buildings
• Most towns increase this to 4m to 6m
• This is tied to the height restriction of the building, 4 meters, or 6 meters, matching spacing
• 13'1" to 19'8" in unit height and spacing
• Nothing bigger than, Width: 8'6" & Height: 13'6", can be driven down a road without a permit
• Thats 12" 8-7/32' x 12" 8-7/32' (measured from the outside) MAX (to be safe of picky inspectors).
• This will INCLUDE exterior sheathing/etc, and any support beams
• HUMANS FALL, use stairs (or well made ships ladder) with railings AND rail mezzanine loft
• Stairs over kitchen countecupboards, loft over bathroom seem best use of space

Human use Note:

NOT DESIGNED FOR LONG TERM HUMAN OCCUPATION, its a "Bunkie Shed", not a "Dwelling"
It can not have "Low Ceilings", as some people are tall

1. 6'10.5" in bed/bathrooms
2. 7'6.5" elsewhere
3. Normal "full height" doors (exterior out swing, interior pocket to "dry-room")

It can not have an "Over Tiny Bathroom", as it "should be" 32sq ft+, if it had a showetub

1. "Dry-Room" with a collapsing wash basin, Cassette Toilet and folding "Bath Sit-tub"

////
////

Heating/Cooling Note

• Area is about (on non-loft level) 160sq, bathroom and loft are under 8ft (x7/8th), call it 200sq ft

RULE: 5 (Hi-Eff) to 10 (Classic) watts of heating power for every sq ft of floor area in a room.

• 200 x 5 = 1000w (thermostatic/infrared, other modern).

COOLING RULE ALSO:

• 10 to 20 BTU per 1 sq ft of floor area in a room. (2250-4500BTU for 225sq ft)
• 1 W is equal to 3.41 BTU/h (convert BTU/h to Watts divide by 3.41 /convert Watts to BTU/h multiply by 3.41)
• OR: COOLING RULE = 2.9w to 5.8w of AC power for every sq ft of floor area in a room.
• About 600w to 700w AC will do

Make sure this heater is 110/120v! (YES, 1000w comes in 110/120v) So a normal outlet powers it

• A small (2500BTU/650w) Mini-Split Heat-Pump/AC would be Ideal, but costly & generally not 110v
• A unit with fan only mode is useful for air circulation also

1000w ductless in-wall electric thermostatic heater with blower fan/thermostat. will heat unit 110v

• ​

See Images below: Ideal target use items needing no plumbing

Ensure all are for 110V AC (15a or less) service for USA/Canada, not 220v. 12v/24v is DC (solar)
No Plumbing Kitching Sink, in All-in-One Kitchenette Unit 600w/900w cooktop, 330w fridge

• Runs on standard outlet plugs (2x outlets, cooktop & fridge/Sink water pump/in-line heater)
• Complete with IGENIX 500w/5a microwave, 460w kettle, 550w toaster oven & 200w slow cooker
• Has, unshown, 24" deep shelf, 24" over surface, full length 48" (4ft)

Shower Stuff composite image
​
Composite bathroom stuff image
​

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2185-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2185/
https://preview.redd.it/95wqwu1esqma1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ed33317ed88f4cdd0f51dbda21100441bd00aac

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2165-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2165/
https://preview.redd.it/osxxgnkkmqma1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94969f4f2a9091ed53c3d718c4afc7378c178dee

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2160-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2160/
https://preview.redd.it/k32vub10ljma1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=827546f7bac0b616a52ef9d4be478dab8b155771

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2145-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2145/
https://preview.redd.it/h0t4whk81ema1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30dc7154d745ac7b423f4cb72387ee781089896e

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2140-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2140/
https://preview.redd.it/goqis841g7ma1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56563bb5bfe959ee04264a95328a66153e004c89

Yarbo was expecting deliveries to their location in Minnesota on the 13th but they never came, and the next delivery date was Monday, February 20th. I wasn't really sure if I was just being told information I wanted to hear but I remained optimistic.
Yarbo letting me know of the missed delivery date
I was eagerly checking my phone constantly on the 20th, when I finally got a text from an unknown number that was just a photo. I quickly realized what it was and responded. I was a little cautious because the image had a white bar at the top of it. I still wasn't sure if I was being led on, especially since they didn't send anything else with it. But they soon followed up.
Text from Yarbo showing delivery
I immediately got in my car and started driving; I got the address as I was on my way. I wasn't pushing this off any longer. Ken joked that they weren't sure if I'd come but he said I would and he was right. I got there at 6:45pm or so. We were expecting a major snow storm to roll in Tuesday/Wednesday so I really wanted to retrieve Yarbo and set it up.
Yarbo in Boxes
They sent me home with an unboxed battery and no charging pad. They said the battery had the latest firmware and was good to go. I didn't take a lot of photos of the unboxing process but was incredibly easily. Just cut the straps off and lift the box cover up, the Yarbo Universal Body and the module are then accessible.
One issue I had was that the the App was showing the battery was at 0%, and I could do some things but nothing else. The app said Yarbo was on the latest firmware, so after a quick push of what I presume to be a beta firmware, the battery level was properly displayed.
I'll be uploading the manual soon.
Most of the accessories are with the Universal Body:

1. RTK poles
2. RTK mounting options
3. RTK wire
4. RTK antennas
5. RTK transmitter
6. Ice Spikes for the tracks
7. Controller
8. Screws
9. Charger
10. etc

Yarbo Universal Body Powered On
The only assembly required is adding the two RTK antennas to the body, and the RTK pole and wire.

Yarbo is HEAVY

S1 Module not properly attached
I had a difficult time connecting the S1 Module to the Yarbo Body. Every time I thought I connected the module securely I'd send it out and the module would pop back off again when Yarbo backed up. In this photo the module actually detached as it was going forward, as you can see from my foot steps around the front of the snow pile.
I can foresee that individuals less able than I will have problems with swapping modules; it's much easier with two people than it is with one. It's not just the weight of the module but also the wires and pushing them so they aren't in the way of the mounting pins as the module is being put on.
I had a few other issues as well, my Yarbo eventually stopped moving and the auger wouldn't run.
I live up to the blonde stereotype
On Wednesday, the Yarbo team came down and helped me set everything up correctly. Turns out, I'm blonde and didn't realize I had the Emergency Button pressed. It's very easy to press and difficult to undo, which is great. Just there's no visual cues on Yarbo or the App that the button was pressed; which is a suggestion I've sent to Yarbo.
Yarbo Team Verifying
After they left I took a stab at my front walk way with the remote and Yarbo worked phenomenally. This was a very light powder drift from the wind so it wasn't too challenging.
Remote Controlled
Autonomous
After I cleared that out I let Yarbo finish the main driveway on its own. We didn't set the boundary too wide, so we are seeing the extent of it's working area; the orange poles are where the side of my driveway really are.
The next morning I sent it out again. But it's slow so I only let it do a few laps before I told it stop and I finished it with my snowblower. If I felt comfortable letting it sit out front while I was away at work I probably just would have let it finish on its own. I live on a dead-end street so I doubt there would have been enough traffic for someone to see it and take it, but I also didn't want to lose my Yarbo after 2-3 days. Especially since the GPS location section of the app isn't ready yet.
Yarbo tackling the edge of a drift
When I got home from work I had Yarbo first real challenge, a pile of snow left over from the plow.
Plow Pile
2 feet tall at it's highest
I cleared this section of the plow pile manually. I just wanted to get a good idea of what I was dealing with here.
With the remote, Yarbo didn't do well. The radar kept detecting the snow berm and stopping the auger and forward movement. I wouldn't exactly count this as a fail, just my inexperience with controlling Yarbo. It was the end of a work day and I just wanted to get inside and make dinner, I didn't want to sit and troubleshoot the whole evening away. Especially since the longer I took to trouble shoot, the less light I had and the colder it got. I opted it to not fiddle around and clear it myself.
Yarbo vs Plow Pile
A few days later I tackled the same pile of snow, but in front of my mailbox.
Yarbo vs Plow Pile, Round 2
I took a break to add the snow spikes to the treads but I only did one column on each tread. It helped but I feel like if I took the time to add all the spikes the difference would have been staggering. I would strongly recommend adding ice spikes at the start of the season. I recommended that Yarbo sell these on their store front, I can see these getting ground down to useless over a season or two.
I think the problem here was two fold

1. The treads didn't get a lot of traction on the layer of snow it was riding up on, and the ice spikes I did add, seemed to help (I added a third of the total spikes). If I had staggered the ice spikes on the treads probably would have done better as well.
2. The snow pile had iced up a bit, preventing the sides of the S1 from breaking apart the snow as they normally would through fresh snow, whether powdery or wet.

Again, this is inexperience from me and not something I'd directly chalk up to Yarbo failing. I don't have the time to essentially experiment with set ups between work and other obligations.
Yarbo vs Snow Drift
Here I am tackling the snow drift by my front door on video a few days later after that picture above. I had turned radar off so I didn't want to get too close to my front step. Yarbo also ate a light along the walkway that must have fallen over, something the radar likely would have detected if it was on.

The Ice Spikes

Yarbo Tank tread with one column of ice spikes
Traction is really Yarbo's biggest enemy right now. Yarbo struggles to turn around in deep snow, but raising the auger helps ease the friction. The ice spikes do help here. I feel like the pathing is going to take a lot of refinement before it's amazing. Yarbo works well, but there's room for it to get better.
Yarbo has said they're adding more powerful motors which should help it turn when there's piles of snow on either side, but I think the ice spikes and maybe a bit more weight is what will really help the most.

Software & Setup

There was no pairing needed whatsoever. Yarbo was already paired with the RTK and Controller out of the box. Additionally, the 4G was already activated and I haven't found a way to pair Yarbo to my own WiFi just yet. The application is still under development so I'm sure it's coming soon.
While trying to clear out another section of walkway, I accidentally ran over my RTK antenna wire. In this process I discovered that there's no way to add Yarbo to the NTRIP or CORS network for your state.
RTK wire rolled up in the S1 auger
Thankfully I haven't had any snow since I did this, but also means I can't test the autonomous features for a bit. I did get a spare cable from Yarbo after this but I haven't found a new location for my RTK transmitter yet. I was also pointed to this product on Amazon, as a replacement RTL cable, from a fellow PIP tester though I haven't purchased it yet.
One thing to note is that the work area maps - currently called Plans - are relative to the position of the RTK antenna. So if the RTK antenna moves you'll have to redo all of your maps, paths, and the charging location. So do not set the RTK antenna somewhere as a temporary placement, make sure you know exactly where it's going to go and that it'll stay there.
Unfortunately, this also means that Yarbo cannot use provided RTK and then use the state RTK network as a back up, as maps will be relative to one or the other. So if you decide to switch to the other RTK signal, you'll have to do the maps, paths, and charge location all over again. I guess that was a bit repetitive.

Comparing my Single Stage Greenworks to Yarbo

22\" 60v Greenworks Pro vs 21\" Yarbo S1
In this photo the S1 is raised up as high as it'll go. As long as the front auger clears an obstacle, Yarbo can climb over it, such as a small step. Steps four inches high would pose a problem.
Overall, I think Yarbo works well but it's not going to be the magic solution people hyped it up to be. I still expect to shovel certain areas, such as near my front step, and maybe the plow pile, but hopefully with other PIP Testers Yarbo can work on that end of driveway problem. It hasn't snowed for me since the 24th of February but it's snowed quite considerably in Norther Minnesota (Duluth) as recently as March 2nd.
I did find the setup process with the hardware to be difficult. I like that there's no assembly of major components (aside from the S1 Chute) but securing the module to the body is a tricky task.
Creating a plan is also difficult, you have to start the process on the phone but once it's underway you can switch to the controller. Sounds like Yarbo is either changing this process or introducing a new method, where you can drive Yarbo to each corner and place a pin in the app. I believe this method will be much easier than the current method. I'm unsure if it'll just support 4 corners/pins or if you'll be able to create complex plans with the pin method.
I may not agree with the updated timeline, but I think it was wise since the onboarding process was not easy, at least for me; requiring the Yarbo team to visit in order to get it running isn't an ideal solution. Hopefully they can make the connection between the model and body easier to mount so it doesn't come off for others plus other enhancements.
Hopefully it snows a meaningful amount one last time for me, and hopefully on a weekend so I can take some time to get some better video.

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2135-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2135/
https://preview.redd.it/zz7bj3bj7lla1.jpg?width=1275&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98d9671112de5a9d4844102e96e3a98b53b7bef4

EDIT:
THIS IS A CONCEPT POST, BUILD & DESIGN POST HERE
​
Bikes at Work, Bicycle Trailer 96B, Rated Chassis weight + 300lbs, TRUUE GVWR is 630lbs (on 175lbs, each, bike tire failure, past this point)
This got... wild. I hope to make a home made "Plan-Bash" out of Frankenstein'ing"

1. Wanderer 5x10ft, Floor-Drop Tall > In "All Flat" panel design with a Tongue Push in to frame front
2. SoCal Buzz, "on=road" variant
3. the "DIY 100lbs Solar Bike Camper" ("Drew Builds Stuff" on YT)
4. The Vespa "Foamy"
5. The Vetsport Extreme Micro Camper
6. Chassis: Pico Light / Wanderer's 5ft "welded" A-Frame "light" chassis / DIY Drew Builds Stuff

////
Holy Grail quest of the day! (From a "Unhomed Cube" to a "94sq ft+ Tiny Home On Wheels")

• "Pure Rigid's" for 4-Season use
• Foot pedal powered only (0.25 to 1hp), 300lbs would be the limit of most people's idea of "reasonable"
• If a Two Wheel Drive 8.67hp (6000w, front 3000 + rear 3000) Mountain/Snow E-bike (E-Moped) cant pull it, its too big (obviously limited to the max legal power, 750w USA/500w Canada, per wheel)
• You can buy E-Bikes up to 5000w and make them 8000w with a 3000w front wheel kit (11hp)
• If you have a THREE WHEEL DRIVE, 11000w (15hp) recumbent E-Bike ... please show it to me

Best concept? (sleep 2, with internal galley, maybe 2.5x2.5ft wet room)

• Using more modern materials, aluminum triangular tubes and SIP "vetsport" framing in light 2x3 lumber, reverse galley/work top to internal. Swap to heavy duty bike tires/innertube to regain about 0.5ft of with per side to increase width to 5ft, use Tongue Push to extend to 9ft length (5x9ft camper 4ft tall)
• bottom 3/16' marine OBS double side finish, top/sides 5mm marine, single side finish, OBS skins on 2x3 SIPS double foil R15 rigid foam seems safe at this height, to save weight (approx 2.75 to 3 inch wall)
• my version of chassis weights half what my previous math (below) shows at same strength (40 to 45lbs, aluminum triangle)
• Estimated weight: 40lbs welded frame, 150lbs vetsport extreme micro camper, single "hatch", no rear door, 3/16' base, in 5mm, 2x3 to R30, Rolling Shell Total = 190lbs, plus interior fixtures
• A 40a charge controller (1lbs), 50aH battery (15lbs), 500w DC to AC Invertor (3lbs), and 500w flex solar panel (10lbs), wire (1lbs) = +30lbs (220lbs)
• Misc internals: +30lbs (250lbs)
• Error Margin: 10% (25lbs)
• Usable total: 275lbs (supporting 630lbs, or 355lbs more, easily in safety margin)
• Video of "sped-up" building of similar SIP walls: Micro Foamie Vespa Teardrop Trailer
• But more like a squared, double wide, stretched version of this: 2'8"x6'8"steel framed, all 1/4" ply, 4ft tall Custom Bike trailer, fully equipped at 135lbs

like a mini version of this squared off "The Buzz", by SoCal, 600lbs empty
Lots of opportunities to trim weight!

• Full torsion axle & 14" wheels and tires with 15 inch clearance (could be trimmed down)
• 5.5ft wide (4ft wide interior) x 12ft long trailer (8ft long interior), 5.5ft tall (4ft tall interior)
• Full Steel construction 2 inch tube (090), heavy-duty leaf springs, sprung under a "3500 lb" axle
• Dry Weight: 600lbs / "Wet" (in use) Weight: 670 / GVWR: 2000 (axle rated to 3500lbs)

Buzz, 670lbs as shown \"wet\", minus the human
Profile: squared off, all \"flat panels\", 4x8 & 5x8 (tongue push to 9ft or even 10ft), 4ft tall
So a "realistic" bike pulled RV has a few considerations: Size & Weight majorly, Features minorly.
Holy Grail = 4 person "sleeper" unit + internal "toilet/shower combo" & internal "Cooking Galley"

• Stepping down in difficulty (AND WEIGHT) removing features and person sleeping capacity
• A Solar powered "mini-vansport" or "Nomad Bike Camper", well made can weigh as little as 100lbs when empty of user, but fully equipped, while being towed.
• Like the "94sq ft Tiny House On Wheels": Ultra Super light "Wanderer 10ft Squaredrop-Tall" OR "Redhawk" with a "Tongue Push" bathroom at 10ft long (+ V push) x 5.6ft wide, 8ft tall (all exterior). Redhawk has a 22sq loft & 8sq ft bathroom (94sq ft + loft = 116sq ft total usable)
• Down to a "Unhomed" Mobile 1 meter "Cubed" 4.885sq ft (9.77sq ft when telescoping) shelter, that has a "hand card" handle & bike hitch (walking, no bike, take inside, use)

Safety
Obey trail/road speeds, but do not exceed trailer's suspension ability (or fishtail + faceplant)

• IMHO: 2x2 lumber or equal strength SQUARED PCV (lighter), is the MINIMUN to make a SIP frame up to 1 meter (3.3ft) tall, 2x4 for any larger
• Plywood skins should be 3/16 inch (5mm to 6mm) thick per 3 feet tall, to passably durable
• Exterior should be at least be fiberglass "cloth" coated, sanded, primed > sand > paint watery coat > sand > paint full coat > sand > seal > buff (for moisture repelling). Reflectors/flag and strobe + break light
• SIP using rigid foam under 1 inch (R5) thick per 3 feet tall is not safe,
• 2x2 lumber = R7.5 (single sheet), 2x4 lumber = R12.5 (R10 + R5 FIRMLY glued together)
• Extreme = Double R-Value above foil backed (sandwiched together on non foil sides)
• Center your dry mass, if you have liquid, White/Grey/Black tanks they must be LOW & PURE CENTER and MINIMAL in size

Internal Bathrooms (smallest to largest)

• Dry shower: a pump jug + sprayer Ultra low flow shower head (normally sold as for "use on your infant child") + Sponge over a grey water blow + towel dry. 2x2x1.5ft Cassette Toilet (external stow)
• Wet Shower: 3x2.5x3.5ft custom "wet room" 2x2x1.5ft Cassette Toilet (internal stow)
• "Tongue Push" 8sq ft 3/4 height Cassette/mini shower combo wet room
• 10sq ft square, full height 3 piece (Mini-coach sink + Cassette/mini shower "wet room")

Please, forgive my spelling, and poor composite concept image :(
Micro, Bathroom could be made into wetroom
Unbeatable: “B100 ULTRA MAX” showerhead that is rated (tested) at 0.5025 gpm
Cooking Galley

• Much like the bathrooms in "size stages". I should be save to leave what a cooking galley/kitchen is undetailed
• The lowest power AC sub-500w: small hotplate is 315w/475w input/300/460w output. mini 2-slice toaster 450w (input). collapsing silicon body 600ml kettle 460w (food grade, 5min boil), 250 to 550w mini toaster over, ‎Solar Powered (stand-alone + tie in) on demand water pump 7w
• Peltier's are very impressive, if employed to take advantage of "pumping" heat (see pic)
• Note: a 100w "pallet" can heat and cool canned/potted items depending on SIDE used, and is room heat neutral (google a 100w "pallet heatsink")
• Below pic is self made, assuming R2.5 to R10 rigid foam insulation double foiled (thickest at hot/cold barrier > top/bottom), out side 5mm MDF, inside 3mm acrylic (water in no leak "box jugs")

Peltier 100w Total, in dual 50w setup, one direction (traditional heatsink), power toggle

• Change to pic (above): stack hot water, over cold water
• Second peltier toggle to swap to 100w power to either side (water side /o food side), other side off

HEATING/COOLING:
The rule is 10 watts (9.67) of heating power per square foot (8ft tall) is required for indoor comfort during the peak of winter (-44C/-44F).

• 95w (100w with blower fan) Thermostatic to a 600w (660w) heat pump (or 650w panel + 65w fan)
• AC, is similar to the below heating, from a hand powered fan > Powered fan > micro AC under 300w > a heat-pump's AC (which uses about half its heating power or 330w)
• Peltier's are very impressive, if employed to take advantage of "pumping" heat (see pic)

Emergency Solar (or foot alternator) Run heat via a Thermostatic Convection Panel

• 100w, no blower, for the smallest (8ft L x 3.125ft W x 3.125ft tall, approx 9.77sq ft = 95w needed)
• The above, could also heat a "can of bean" to eating temperature
• You can do your own math for your sq ft
• Thermostatic panels are safe/light, remember blowers use 5% (100w = 5w fan) of power avg
• At a 350w+ range need, heat-pumps are the safest/lightest
• Again: 2x2 lumber = R7.5 (single sheet), 2x4 lumber = R12.5 (R10 + R5 FIRMLY glued together)
• Extreme = Double R-Value above foil backed (sandwiched together on non foil sides)
• R5 from 6mm body sheathing, R25 from double foil insulation on PVC 2x4's = R30 4" Thick Wall

Power:

• A 15lbs 50Ah lithium battery (sleeping time full heat, 24hr low heat) per 100w of heat needs
• A 100w solar panel (3x3ft flex), in series to match need + 20a charge controller sub 300w, with mono display. 30a good to 500w, 40a good to 600w, 50w to 700w (any more is over kill, 7KWh)
• A 150w (to 750w, max, more is overkill) DC to AC invertor with 3 prong outlet (or your regions) + 1 usb port, heatsink with fan switch
• Mini PC (Intel Celeron J4125/UHD 600 GPU) Off 0.9W / Standby 3W / Basic usage 9W / Max. 18W.
• 10.1" 720p/1280x800 HDTV/PC monitor, Touchscreen/Speakers/BNC/HDMI/VGA/AV/USB: 18W
• Lights: 7w led in solar fan in mini-skylight (stand alone + tie in, toggle), 11w point light (usb reader, toggle)
• Emergency: A mini 100w alternator (2 silde rails, 1: hand/foot pedal, 2: Bike wheel clamp)

White/Grey/Black Water (minimal sizes, if used)

• White water tank: 1 Gallon per person
• Grey Water tank volume must equal white tanks (obviously, to avoid overflow/floods)
• Black water tank must equal 0.5 gallons (full blader emptied + daily constitutional)
• Equals, per person, 2x 1.0 gallon tanks & 1x 0.5 gallon tank

Weight cutting, on a rigid squaredrop

• 5mm (to 10mm) finished marine plywood + 2x2 (or 2x4) PVC lumber + SIP (R7.5 foil back doubled, so R15, plus both "skins" R2.5 or R5 = R20)
• Aluminum Triangular frame (I must check aluminum's strength by gauge), my math used square steel tubes
• Max U 0,21 Composite ("Lexan") windows (1x "door port hole", 2x front/rear security view port, 1x egress able skylight, opposite end of hatch/door)
• Minimized exterior doors, to single 2x3 hatch to RV half door

Aerodynamics, on a rigid squaredrop

• An aerodynamic (even on a 8ft tall 5.6ft wide) "tongue push" Sharp V-Point (equilateral wing force wedge/airbody) as "clasp on shell cover" for battery/propane/spare tire, to max forward safe point
• Wheel cowls
• Smooth flat top roof & ultra-light under sheet/plate (fast release on bottom plate)

TUBES (So Called)

• NO round TUBES... all "tubes" mean "SQUARE OR TRIANGLE tubes" because of physics (pro quote, designing a vehicle roll cage):

START
"In general, any structural member gets stronger in bending and twisting when you get more material farther away from the "neutral axis." Assuming a symmetrical section, the neutral axis can be thought of as the center. A 2" square tube is much stronger than a 2" round tube of the same thickness, because the square tube has a 2" wide flange located 1" from the neutral axis, where the round tube has a flange width of essentially zero at 1" from the center. (Of course, it doesn't hurt any that a 2" square tube actually has more material than a 2" round tube of the same wall thickness.)\ (see below *)*
Or if you are a physics buff, you can call it "parabolic dissipation" Which is basically just a fancy way of saying that a parabola (something round) will dissipate force over the entire structure rather than any one specific point.
I cast my vote with Eagle. Round tube is stronger in column strength and torsion. Square tube is stronger in beam strength. For a roll cage, the ease of bending makes round the winner. The sweeping bend of a round tube is stronger than the sharp, mitered joint required by square or rectangular tube.
In any case, always triangulate for ultimate strength.
I'm a licensed architect and had several years of structural engineering. If you run the numbers, square tube is stronger than round tube in bending, for the reasons I stated above. But you have to remember that there is more material in a 2" square tube than there is in a 2" round tube of the same wall thickness. The square tube is also stronger in compression and tension, too, but only because of the additional material. Round tube is sometimes easier to work with, and with round tube the strength is always the same in any direction -- there is no diagonal.
Frames aren't made of round tube (Unless you drive a go cart or a motor pickle).
Seriously, the factor you look for in resisting bending is called "section modulus," and for twisting it's "moment of intertia." As one increases, so does the other, but one is by a factor of 3 and the other a factor of 4. For simplicity, let's look just at the section modulus of a 2" tube with a 1/4" wall thickness.
We have a small problem because round tube is designated by inside diameter and square (rectangular) tube is designated by outside dimension, but I'll still go with a 2" nominal round pipe because a 1-1/2" pipe only has an outside diameter of 1.900".
Okay. 2" round pipe, 1/4" wall (actually 0.218): Section modulus = 0.731 inches cubed.
2" square tube, 1/4" wall: Section modulus 0.766 inches cubed. Not a huge difference, but better by about 5%.
The round pipe, however, is stiffer in resisting twist (moment of intertia), as well as being lighter per lineal foot. So it would appear that there is no single "right" answer here -- it depends on what the application is. Rectangular is better to resist bending, round is better to resist twisting.
\With rectangular tube, of course, you aren't limited to square. You can choose a deeper tube to stiffen it even more without increasing the weight, if you have the space available."*
END

• Non-load bearing, "round tubing" if you are screaming to save weight), but its still iffy imho

20ga to 14ga/30lbs to 100lbs Chassis: Supports 300lbs to 1200lbs

Detailed instructions below, at bottom or here
Archived, four versions suit body wdiths of 48 and 60 inches, and to suit bolted or welded construction.

• Can be altered to 5.6ft wide (max) and long enough for a "usable, safe turning" body length of up to 10ft

Chassis is "No Weld" (3/8" carriage bolted) OR Welded.

• This could be made from 4ft to 10ft long safely, with a max width of 8.6ft (inside weight limits)
• IMHO max "pedal" power bike realistic weights up to 600lbs max (if your nickname is Moose or Tank)

Canada MOT/USA DOT Note: BIKE ONLY. This trailer has no VIN, so CANT be registered/"plated"

• The aim of the chassis is to be light and strong, Pull-able by a Pedal bike to at best a powerful E-bike (or off-road)

Frame Gauge Options (heavy option detailed in walk through)

• 19ga based chassis weighs 33lbs and supports up tp 210lbs (ideal) to 400lbs (safe max)
• 11ga based chassis weighs 100lbs and supports up to 630lbs (ideal) to 1200lbs (safe max)
• 11ga is as "heavy" as I would rate this as ideal ("Heavy RV" on 5x8ft trailer, for a Wanderer 10ft "Squaredrop Maus" pulled by powerful E-Bike)
• It is suitable for this design but is not necessarily suitable for other heavier designs.
• 3 2”x1”x14ga rectangular box is used for the main rails of the frame. (90lbs version)
• 20ga is lightest (and I wouldn't go higher) 11ga would be easier to weld (and I wouldn't go lower)

Wheel options

• Can range from "Bike Wheel" SECURLY mounted to metal frame, with quick release (to stow wheels) to, the shown in walk through, trailer tires on separate Flexiride half-axles. Kick stand matching gauge of frame

Suspension options Starting with, lightest to heaviest:

1. Independent Side Frame Heavy Duty Bike Tire Innertube & Tire (low speed under 40km/h)
2. Solid axel frame mounted (mid speed, 40km/h to 60km/h) of above (bike tire)
3. LIGHT Solid axel independent suspension (mid speed 60km/h to 80km/h)
4. Half-Axels Independent (highspeed, over 80km/h)

If you need "Power Assist" (for Pedal bikes & typical "rear drive" E-Bikes):

• An avg cyclist on a long ride might average between 200-1000 (600) watts, which is about 1/4 of a horsepower to 1horusepower (1hp would be HEAVY exertion)
• A "48v 1000w Electric Bike Conversion Motor Kit (Front)" will add alot of pull power
• it is 100% feasible to have both a front and rear powered wheel (TWO WHEEL DRIVE)
• You can find similar kits from 250w to 3000w in power

Concept Images
frame concept
Maus, \"The Biker\" remake concept of below never made bike RV. IMHO poor material choices
\"The Biker\", German Bike RV, was never put in to production. Pro materials trimmed weight
LIGHT SIP construction r10 to r30 combined thermal rating (max 1/4\" plywood + 2x4's + R17.5 rigid foam)
Max Size Concept (Vetsport Extreme SIPS Microcamper) Turn galley internal, add micro-bathroom
Vetsport Extreme SIPS Microcamper
Improved: "Redhawk Micro-Cabin"
​
Redhawk plans $5
​
Redhawk Interior, Bunk Beds Sleep 4 people, Top Bunk Removes during day/travel
Best bathroom arrangement IMHO (to save space) "Tongue Push"
Ignore layout EXCEPT BATHROOM \"Tongue Push\"
Min Size Concept of "RV" (add a micro-camper "doored galley/storage", to better equip)
Nomad

Take Inside Handcart + Bike Hitch Cube Telescoping (4ft to 8ft)

Bikesport Micro-Camper
Weight Warning: Do not exceed listed
2”x1”x14ga rectangular box is used for the main rails of the frame. This frame design passes the Australian/UK/Canadian trailer rules for a utility trailer of 630lb, so that is probably sufficient for a 1200lb teardrop which will see much less abuse.
There is sufficient spare capacity in the frame design to allow the tongue to be lengthened if required up to 24” longer than drawn – this can be down either by lengthening the A-frame rails (preferred) or by using a longer single 2”x2” tongue tube.
The 14ga tube requires an expert welder to make good joints. For the less skilled welder, switching to the more common 11ga tube would be a safe alternative and would only cost 10lb extra weight.
A single 2”x2”x11ga tongue right back to the axle cross-member can be used instead of the A-frame but this is not as stiff and should not be made any longer than drawn, to avoid snaking issues.
To save weight, separate Flexiride half-axles of 425lb capacity per pair are used. These are unusual in the US but are the standard type for small trailers in Europe. Aligning the two half-axles to the frame needs to be done with a little care, but it does not require either a tame rocket scientist or automotive alignment equipment. The simple technique is to bolt the half-axles to their mounting plates, clamp the half-axles to a straight beam, align the joined half-axles and tack-weld the mounting plates to the axle cross-member. Re[1]move the half-axles before final welding the mounting plates.
The body is supported by mounting plates under the front frame of the floor, and by two 12” long angles under the sidewalls. For a body built with care, this is quite sufficient support. A few 3/8” hold-down bolts with big washers are all that is needed to join the body to the frame.
A standard trailer jack is overkill for this trailer which has only 40lb weight on the hitch, so a custom-made “kick/prop stand” (the British word for it) is used which weighs only 3.5lb in total. This consists of two square 4 tubes with a series of holes through the sides that allow a 1/4” pin (with a R-clip or similar locking feature) to provide height adjustment in 1” steps

Go to the following link to view, download, share and/or print the full PDF.
https://manual-hub.com/manuals/cub-cadet-2130-01-pdf-manual/
https://manual-hub.com/manual-category/cub-cadet-2130/
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